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289 running poorly

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Mail From: Rick Larson (email redacted)

On my fifth autocross run on Sunday, I floored it
and all I got was bog.

I limped around the course to the paddock to check it
out. No vacuum lines off, no spark plug wires
missing, fuel getting to carb, seems to idle ok.

I must have broke something on my fourth run.

I drove it home but could only go about 50-55 mph.
It surged like two cylinders were firing at the same
time.

Any ideas what to check?

Some thoughts include:

Check timing to see if the original 175k timing chain
jumped a tooth.

Pull the valve covers to see if any rockers are broken.

Something else? The only mods to the engine is a
Duraspark distributor.

All suggestions welcome.

rick
'66 c-code, duraspark, ...
--
Rick Larson (email redacted)
Minneapolis

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Mail From: Allen Cross (email redacted)

Rick Larson wrote:
>
[....]

> Check timing to see if the original 175k timing chain
> jumped a tooth.

If that thing realy has 175K on it, you're lucky
if it *only* "jumped a tooth". Check that first. ;-)
--
MrF
Allen Cross
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Mail From: Rick Larson (email redacted)

MrF wrote:
>
> Rick Larson wrote:
> >
> > Check timing to see if the original 175k timing chain
> > jumped a tooth.
>
> If that thing realy has 175K on it, you're lucky
> if it *only* "jumped a tooth". Check that first. ;-)

You think 12 degrees of timing chain slop might
be an issue :-).

I guess I'll order a FMS timing chain. "Kids, no
shoes this month...".

Thanks Allen,
rick
--
Rick Larson (email redacted)
Minneapolis

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Mail From: steve porter (email redacted)

I would recommend sticking to the edlebrock or Cloyes timing chain.... i
always like knowing that my internal parts were machined iron not
poured/cast.

steve porter


>You think 12 degrees of timing chain slop might
be an issue :-).

I guess I'll order a FMS timing chain. "Kids, no
shoes this month...".

Thanks Allen,
rick
--
Rick Larson (email redacted)
Minneapolis

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Mail From: sam weatherby (email redacted)

The block is cast...
Stock heads are cast.
I think as long as you aren't using the stock composite item you are ok.
I replaced the original timing gear at 170,000 miles, so it wasn't that
bad...
-srw

-----Original Message-----
From: steve porter <(email redacted)>
To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [CM:13799] 289 running poorly


>I would recommend sticking to the edlebrock or Cloyes timing chain.... i
>always like knowing that my internal parts were machined iron not
>poured/cast.
>
>steve porter
>
>
>>You think 12 degrees of timing chain slop might
>be an issue :-).
>
>I guess I'll order a FMS timing chain. "Kids, no
>shoes this month...".
>
>Thanks Allen,
>rick
>--
>Rick Larson (email redacted)
>Minneapolis
>
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><
>
>
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>


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Mail From: steve porter (email redacted)

see you on race day..... or then again, maybe I won't.....

Without going into detail, it is better to spend the extra bucks to get the
better piece. always....

BTW
I have to pull my heads and have them worked since I was too lazy to pull
them and do it right the first time. My motor that has been together for
three months will come apart again. next time I do it right from the
start.

steve porter

Message text written by INTERNETsad smileyemail redacted)
>
The block is cast...
Stock heads are cast.
I think as long as you aren't using the stock composite item you are ok.
I replaced the original timing gear at 170,000 miles, so it wasn't that
bad...
-srw

-----Original Message-----
From: steve porter <(email redacted)>
To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [CM:13799] 289 running poorly


>I would recommend sticking to the edlebrock or Cloyes timing chain.... i
>always like knowing that my internal parts were machined iron not
>poured/cast.
>
>steve porter
>
>
>>You think 12 degrees of timing chain slop might
>be an issue :-).
>
>I guess I'll order a FMS timing chain. "Kids, no
>shoes this month...".
>
>Thanks Allen,
>rick
>--
>Rick Larson (email redacted)
>Minneapolis<


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