Classic Mustangs List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

>3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]



Yes, the '68 I have has a valve. It's only activated when the temp
slider is at the fully cold position. My car had factory AC, so that
may be why.



>4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going
into the heater. Which hose does this go into?



The one going into the heater core! Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Without looking I don't remember.



I can tell you one very important thing though. Make sure the heater
core hoses are isolated from the engine vibration. Vibration on the
hoses will kill your heater core in short order.



Good luck!
Keven

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/c140e4a5/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Nov 30, 2006, at 6:44 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Vibration on the hoses will kill your heater core in short order.


Why is that?

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

The vibration on the hoses travels to the heater core inlet/outlet since
they are directly connected.

The heater core is nothing but soldered brass tubes with fins (like most
radiators) and so vibrating inlets/outlets will stress the solder joints
where the inlet and outlet are connected.

The fact that the inlet/outlet to the heater core are 3" or so long
tubes makes it worse (because they act like a lever arm) and it takes
less vibration to fatigue the solder joints apart there causing leaks.

I installed my heater core the first time and I left the hoses draped
over the engine. The engine's vibration was carried through the hoses
right to the heater core and it was dead in less than a year.

Of course, construction quality has a major effect here, and it could
have been worse or better depending on the strength of that particular
core, but I thought less than a year's life was particularly crummy,
especially considering how much of a pain they are to replace.

I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump routed as
high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
about 70-80K miles) before it failed.

Keven

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
Brandon Peskin
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:30 AM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections


On Nov 30, 2006, at 6:44 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> Vibration on the hoses will kill your heater core in short order.


Why is that?
_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mustang (Brandon Peskin)


On Nov 30, 2006, at 8:09 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump
> routed as
> high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
> around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
> about 70-80K miles) before it failed.


Thanks for the insight. Interestingly enough, I'm in the process of
replacing my core/rebuilding my heater. When I opened the heater box
(to my surprise) I found the *original* core in there. Ford part
number and May 20 1965 stamped on the bottom of it.

Of course, I have a Mexico-built reproduction to put in there, but
I'm not entirely sure there's anything really wrong with my old core
- other than it *may* have crud in it. I'm still in shock about the
longevity of the original core.

I opted to go with metal/stainless hoses (which have rubber clamp-
down ends). The old rubber hoses ran over the top of a J hook/support
for the hoses on the side of the carburetor, but (although I haven't
connected them up and cut them to fit) I wanted to run them right
over the top of the intake manifold because it looked cleaner so I
removed the J hook. Maybe I'll put it back now.

Do you have a pic of how your heater hoses look routed by the shock
tower?

--
Brandon Peskin
1965 Poppy Red Coupe
Antioch, CA

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: gavinbr (brian wenyon)

Keven,

Thanks for your input

I have the Ford manual and it shows the hose routing of all the different
engines they made.
Everyone shows the hoses going over the engine. In particular the one that
goes to the manifold [289/302] it is even clamped to the side of the Carb.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca]On Behalf Of Coates,
Keven
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 6:45 AM
To: gavinbr at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections

>3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]

Yes, the '68 I have has a valve. It's only activated when the temp slider
is at the fully cold position. My car had factory AC, so that may be why.

>4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going
into the heater. Which hose does this go into?

The one going into the heater core! Sorry I couldn't be more help. Without
looking I don't remember.

I can tell you one very important thing though. Make sure the heater core
hoses are isolated from the engine vibration. Vibration on the hoses will
kill your heater core in short order.

Good luck!
Keven
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/34836547/attachment-0001.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: gavinbr (brian wenyon)

In the Ford manual [1970 shop] under heating systems page 34.03.20, Fig 23
they show there recommendations of the hose routings.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca]On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:23 AM
To: gavinbr at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections


On Nov 30, 2006, at 8:09 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump
> routed as
> high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
> around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
> about 70-80K miles) before it failed.


Thanks for the insight. Interestingly enough, I'm in the process of
replacing my core/rebuilding my heater. When I opened the heater box
(to my surprise) I found the *original* core in there. Ford part
number and May 20 1965 stamped on the bottom of it.

Of course, I have a Mexico-built reproduction to put in there, but
I'm not entirely sure there's anything really wrong with my old core
- other than it *may* have crud in it. I'm still in shock about the
longevity of the original core.

I opted to go with metal/stainless hoses (which have rubber clamp-
down ends). The old rubber hoses ran over the top of a J hook/support
for the hoses on the side of the carburetor, but (although I haven't
connected them up and cut them to fit) I wanted to run them right
over the top of the intake manifold because it looked cleaner so I
removed the J hook. Maybe I'll put it back now.

Do you have a pic of how your heater hoses look routed by the shock
tower?

--
Brandon Peskin
1965 Poppy Red Coupe
Antioch, CA



_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Maybe it was just a bad heater core, but I think any isolation of
vibration from the engine is a good thing. It wasn't difficult to do it
the way I did, but obviously each person is free to do has he/she
pleases.



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of
brian wenyon
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:19 AM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections



Keven,



Thanks for your input



I have the Ford manual and it shows the hose routing of all the
different engines they made.

Everyone shows the hoses going over the engine. In particular the one
that goes to the manifold [289/302] it is even clamped to the side of
the Carb.



Brian



-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca]On Behalf Of
Coates, Keven
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 6:45 AM
To: gavinbr at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections



>3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]



Yes, the '68 I have has a valve. It's only activated when the temp
slider is at the fully cold position. My car had factory AC, so that
may be why.



>4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going
into the heater. Which hose does this go into?



The one going into the heater core! Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Without looking I don't remember.



I can tell you one very important thing though. Make sure the heater
core hoses are isolated from the engine vibration. Vibration on the
hoses will kill your heater core in short order.



Good luck!
Keven

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/d6b68bee/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

>Thanks for the insight. Interestingly enough, I'm in the process of
replacing my core/rebuilding my heater. When I opened the heater box
(to my surprise) I found the *original* core in there. Ford part
number and May 20 1965 stamped on the bottom of it.

Wow, that is amazing. There's certainly something to be said for Ford
OEM quality in these parts.

>Do you have a pic of how your heater hoses look routed by the shock
tower?

I don't, but I could take one tonight if interested.

Keven

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)

Coates, Keven wrote:

>
> I installed my heater core the first time and I left the hoses draped
> over the engine. The engine's vibration was carried through the hoses
> right to the heater core and it was dead in less than a year.
>
> Of course, construction quality has a major effect here, and it could
> have been worse or better depending on the strength of that particular
> core, but I thought less than a year's life was particularly crummy,
> especially considering how much of a pain they are to replace.

I'd be more suspect of the replacement heater core ... I once pulled
the nipple right out of the heater core.... and this was a new
replacement. ....

> I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump routed as
> high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
> around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
> about 70-80K miles) before it failed.

... even that is too short a life for a heater core.


--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)


>I'd be more suspect of the replacement heater core ...

I'm sure that was a factor. It's been a long time but I think I
actually went through two heater cores this way. Still though, I'm sure
construction was a factor.

I'm not sure where to get a really well made replacement. I got my last
one from O'reilly. It wasn't easy to find, but I think it had a
lifetime guarantee. Of course I'd gladly pay more for a part actually
made to last a lifetime if I knew where to get one. NAPA seems to be a
good source of quality parts occasionally, but not always, and you
always pay a premium. The mustang parts places often buy very poor
quality parts.

>... even that is too short a life for a heater core.

I agree. It may have been closer to 100K miles, but still it should
have lasted longer.

Keven

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: cjk22 (Christian Kronenwetter)

Am I wrong in saying that the Heater hose running past the Carb is for
proper choke operation?

Christian

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:23 AM
To: Christian
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections


On Nov 30, 2006, at 8:09 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump
> routed as
> high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
> around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
> about 70-80K miles) before it failed.


Thanks for the insight. Interestingly enough, I'm in the process of
replacing my core/rebuilding my heater. When I opened the heater box
(to my surprise) I found the *original* core in there. Ford part
number and May 20 1965 stamped on the bottom of it.

Of course, I have a Mexico-built reproduction to put in there, but
I'm not entirely sure there's anything really wrong with my old core
- other than it *may* have crud in it. I'm still in shock about the
longevity of the original core.

I opted to go with metal/stainless hoses (which have rubber clamp-
down ends). The old rubber hoses ran over the top of a J hook/support
for the hoses on the side of the carburetor, but (although I haven't
connected them up and cut them to fit) I wanted to run them right
over the top of the intake manifold because it looked cleaner so I
removed the J hook. Maybe I'll put it back now.

Do you have a pic of how your heater hoses look routed by the shock
tower?

--
Brandon Peskin
1965 Poppy Red Coupe
Antioch, CA



_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)

Christian Kronenwetter wrote:
> Am I wrong in saying that the Heater hose running past the Carb is for
> proper choke operation?

Hmmm ... interesting thought. Nothing in the 67 Shop Manual Fuel -
Choke section says anything about the hoses. I wouldn't expect the hose
to be a significant source of choke heat compared to the hot air pipe
from the exhaust manifold. Not to mention the heater delete cars
...which had no hoses....


--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: gavinbr (brian wenyon)

Hello again,

Can anybody answer my questions 2 and 4 listed below.
I have been able to figure out the water feed direction now. The water is
pumped out of the top of the manifold and into the heater block and back
into the water pump lower connection.
We have run this car without the heater bypass hose for at least three
years. Any comments on this.

Thanks

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: brian wenyon [mailto:gavinbr at comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:30 PM
To: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
Cc: classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
Subject: 1965 heater hose connections

Hello,

I have question regarding the heater hookup on my sons 1965 Mustang coupe.
When we bought the car 3 years ago, we installed an Edlebrock water pump and
manifold and never reconnected the heater hoses.

We have now removed the heater and refurbished it.
Its ready for the hoses now and some heat!

My questions are.

1] Which is the feed for the heater. [From the water pump to the heater]?
2] Do you need the heater bypass connection?
3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]
4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going into
the heater. Which hose does this go into?

Your input would be appreciated

Thanks

Brian


-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/d494f625/attachment-0001.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: mahilly (Mike H)

I think you answered your own question in #4...the filter should go on the
hose coming out of the manifold that feeds water to the core.

On 11/30/06, brian wenyon <gavinbr at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hello again,
>
>
>
> Can anybody answer my questions 2 and 4 listed below.
>
> I have been able to figure out the water feed direction now. The water is
> pumped out of the top of the manifold and into the heater block and back
> into the water pump lower connection.
>
> We have run this car without the heater bypass hose for at least three
> years. Any comments on this.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* brian wenyon [mailto:gavinbr at comcast.net]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:30 PM
> *To:* classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
> *Cc:* classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> *Subject:* 1965 heater hose connections
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I have question regarding the heater hookup on my sons 1965 Mustang coupe.
>
> When we bought the car 3 years ago, we installed an Edlebrock water pump
> and manifold and never reconnected the heater hoses.
>
>
>
> We have now removed the heater and refurbished it.
>
> Its ready for the hoses now and some heat!
>
>
>
> My questions are.
>
>
>
> 1] Which is the feed for the heater. [From the water pump to the heater]?
>
> 2] Do you need the heater bypass connection?
>
> 3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]
>
> 4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going
> into the heater. Which hose does this go into?
>
>
>
> Your input would be appreciated
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classic-mustangs mailing list
> Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
> lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs
>
> Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/91c88a0c/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)

brian wenyon wrote:
> Hello again,
>
>
>
> Can anybody answer my questions 2 and 4 listed below.
>
> I have been able to figure out the water feed direction now. The water
> is pumped out of the top of the manifold and into the heater block and
> back into the water pump lower connection.

It seems to me that answers Q4 ... it goes in the hose *to* the heater.

> We have run this car without the heater bypass hose for at least three
> years. Any comments on this.

Pardon my ignorance, what's a "heater bypass hose"?
That sounds like what you do when you don't want a heater



>
>
> My questions are.
>
>
>
> 1] Which is the feed for the heater. [From the water pump to the heater]?
>
> 2] Do you need the heater bypass connection?
>
> 3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]
>
> 4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going
> into the heater. Which hose does this go into?
>
>



--

Regards
--------------
Walt Boeninger
mailto:webmaster at norcal-saac.org
norcal-saac.org

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: wal (Wal Marshall)


> Vibration on the hoses will kill your heater core in short order.

Why is that?

Indeed. Perhaps the heater cores are dying because the cooling systems were filled with straight water with little or no additive? The copper/aluminium ion exchange maybe corroding the copper core. If you have an aluminium radiator core that may pronounce a faster death sentence on your copper heater unless the coolant is fully up to spec.

Perhaps where the original heater core lasted well, maybe the original owners looked after their cars properly and maintained the coolant?

Cheers, Wal
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/f955b758/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: gavinbr (brian wenyon)

Hello,

Found this on the web. Heater hose routing.
This is typical of all the early Mustangs.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca]On Behalf Of brian
wenyon
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:37 AM
To: gavinbr at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections

In the Ford manual [1970 shop] under heating systems page 34.03.20, Fig 23
they show there recommendations of the hose routings.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca]On Behalf Of Brandon
Peskin
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:23 AM
To: gavinbr at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections


On Nov 30, 2006, at 8:09 AM, Coates, Keven wrote:

> I installed the replacement with the hoses from the water pump
> routed as
> high on the shock tower as possible (to avoid header heat) and then
> around to the heater core and it lasted probably seven years (probably
> about 70-80K miles) before it failed.


Thanks for the insight. Interestingly enough, I'm in the process of
replacing my core/rebuilding my heater. When I opened the heater box
(to my surprise) I found the *original* core in there. Ford part
number and May 20 1965 stamped on the bottom of it.

Of course, I have a Mexico-built reproduction to put in there, but
I'm not entirely sure there's anything really wrong with my old core
- other than it *may* have crud in it. I'm still in shock about the
longevity of the original core.

I opted to go with metal/stainless hoses (which have rubber clamp-
down ends). The old rubber hoses ran over the top of a J hook/support
for the hoses on the side of the carburetor, but (although I haven't
connected them up and cut them to fit) I wanted to run them right
over the top of the intake manifold because it looked cleaner so I
removed the J hook. Maybe I'll put it back now.

Do you have a pic of how your heater hoses look routed by the shock
tower?

--
Brandon Peskin
1965 Poppy Red Coupe
Antioch, CA



_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/

_______________________________________________
Classic-mustangs mailing list
Classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Visit the Classic Mustang Wiki! sauce.donair.org/~cm/
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: heater hose routing.gif
Type: image/gif
Size: 15732 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061130/592ec1d2/attachment-0001.gif

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keven (Coates, Keven)

Nope, I've always used 50/50 water and coolant. I didn't move to an
aluminum radiator until just recently.



Original or not, you can't escape the effect of vibration on soldered
cores. That's why I chose to route my hoses differently. I've seen
others do this too. It's not difficult, just a choice.



Keven

________________________________

From: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
[mailto:classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca] On Behalf Of Wal
Marshall
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:53 PM
To: Coates, Keven
Subject: Re: [CM] 1965 heater hose connections




> Vibration on the hoses will kill your heater core in short order.

Why is that?



Indeed. Perhaps the heater cores are dying because the cooling systems
were filled with straight water with little or no additive? The
copper/aluminium ion exchange maybe corroding the copper core. If you
have an aluminium radiator core that may pronounce a faster death
sentence on your copper heater unless the coolant is fully up to spec.



Perhaps where the original heater core lasted well, maybe the original
owners looked after their cars properly and maintained the coolant?



Cheers, Wal

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061201/c5fc523d/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: gavinbr (brian wenyon)

Hello,

What?s the take on the heater bypass hose [ 90 degree bend].

Do we need it or not?
I have run the car for almost three years without it, no ill effects?

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: brian wenyon [mailto:gavinbr at comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 6:30 PM
To: classic-mustangs-bounces at lists.twistedpair.ca
Cc: classic-mustangs at lists.twistedpair.ca
Subject: 1965 heater hose connections

Hello,

I have question regarding the heater hookup on my sons 1965 Mustang coupe.
When we bought the car 3 years ago, we installed an Edlebrock water pump and
manifold and never reconnected the heater hoses.

We have now removed the heater and refurbished it.
Its ready for the hoses now and some heat!

My questions are.

1] Which is the feed for the heater. [From the water pump to the heater]?
2] Do you need the heater bypass connection?
3] Did these cars ever come with water stop valves [on/off]
4] I want to install a filter for the water feed, to prevent crud going into
the heater. Which hose does this go into?

Your input would be appreciated

Thanks

Brian


-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/attachments/20061201/6271447e/attachment.html

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: walt (Walt Boeninger)

Are you talking about the 90 degree elbow from the thermo housing to the
water pump? That's not a heater bypass, that's to allow coolant flow
before the thermostat opens... and it's good idea to have it if you use
a thermostat .... allows the heated water to move prior to thermostat
opening...... I don't use one on my race motor because I don't use a
thermostat, just a restricter plate.

This elbow has nothing to do with the heater.

Walt
----

brian wenyon wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
>
> What?s the take on the heater bypass hose [ 90 degree bend].
>
>
>
> Do we need it or not?
>
> I have run the car for almost three years without it, no ill effects?
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>