Ford First Forum

Piston Rings - Cortina, Zephyr, Zodiac, Consul, Granada [Bucks, GBR] (no replies)

afcneal — Sun, 05 May 2013 05:46:26 -0500

I've a supply of (mainly) Cords piston rings for several classic Ford models. $20 plus postage from the UK (price will depend upon urgency!). Application as follows:
Model cc Bore inch Size +
Escort Anglia 105E Prefect 107E Thames Cortina 1300/1600 Escort 1300 & GT Capri 1300/1600 & GT Classic Corsair. Morgan 4/4 Series III-V 940/997/1298/1340/1499/1599 3 3/16 40
Zephyr 6 Zodiac MKIII 2553 3 1/4 Std
Escort Cortina Capri Pinto Fiesta(1600) 940 1298 1599 3 3/16 20
Escort Cortina Capri Pinto Fiesta(1600) 940 1298 1599 3 3/16 40
Corsair V4 Zephyr 4 Capri GT Consul Transit 1663 1996 3 11/16 30
Corsair V4 Zephyr 4 Capri GT Consul Transit 1663 1996 3 11/16 60
Zephyr 6 Zodiac Capri Consul Granada 2495 2994 3 11/16 20
Zephyr 6 Zodiac Capri Consul Granada 2495 2994 3 11/16 40
Transit diesel 2358 93.647 (mm) 10
Transit diesel 2358 93.647 (mm) 20

1934 Ford Model Y (no replies)

OldBloke — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:53:57 -0500

Heres a beauty for sale in Colorado. Wish I was younger or at least more able bodied!

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?42,2338045

Celebrities in Fords (4 replies)

Skye — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 07:50:20 -0500

Let's try this! Post your photos of major & minor public figures in classic Fords.

To start, here's Annette Funicello with her custom painted purple 1957 Thunderbird, around 1963

ANGLIA 49'-53' (no replies)

massena1 — Wed, 30 Jan 2013 23:47:50 -0600

WHY NO ANGLIA 49'-53' THAMES

1985 F150 XLT Lariat Tailgate letters (no replies)

Tom Warren — Tue, 15 Jan 2013 09:35:40 -0600

Does anyone know where I can get the chrome letters that are on the tailgate panel? Someone apparently thought they need the O & R in Ford more than I. I have been told that you have to buy the whole panel. Any info will be appreciated.

Any Mustang enthusiasm out there? (no replies)

MoneyPit — Fri, 28 Dec 2012 22:17:14 -0600

Lets get some action on the Ford Mustang Forum. Lets see some of Mustangs out there.

FOR SALE 1967 Mustang GTA "S" Code Coupe [Wappingers Falls NY, USA] (no replies)

1MACH2NV — Sun, 28 Oct 2012 22:02:09 -0500

Hello FF Guys & Girls;
I have for sale for your consideration a numbers matching 67 Mustang GTA "S" code coupe. I chased this particular GTA for
nearly 20 years, but as usually the case - the owner didn't want to sell & had plans or should I say "dreams" of some day restoring it. Year after year passed at to no avail. I will say though, the gentleman was very nice & would entertain me every time I stopped by, by showing me parts he'd been collecting. Then one day towards the end of last year I received the call,
but not from the gentleman himself - but his wife. The gentleman had passed away & his wife asked me if I was still interested
in buying it - naturally I was & didn't even try to barter the selling price.

To my amazement, the GTA started right up & run great. Apparently the gentleman would start the GTA up monthly, let it run
for an hour or so his wife said, kepted fresh gas in it & even changed the oil yearly - he did this for over 20 years. He truly loved his Mustang.

A trip to the storage shed behind their house unvailed NOS quarter panels, inner/outer rear wheel houses, rear tail panel & rear valance, floor pans & other odd/ends - some of which I never saw on my visits. Needless to say, as a restorer - I was delighted. Nothing fits better then good used or NOS parts.

So over the past winter my son & I repaired everything from the doors back, even being ever so careful not to ruin the original vinyl top. We painted the repaired areas with with the correct Springtime Yellow hue using PPG base/clear two part
system. We also replaced the headliner, seat covers & carpet. If the seat covers look old to you, that's because they were
bought new some 10 to 15 years ago & the patina was just right. Same is to be said for the carpet, although the headliner is
new, new - as the one the gentleman bought was just too fragile.

We also recored the radiator, water pump, belts, hoses & full tune-up. Boiled the gas tank to be on the safe side, blow out the fuel lines, replaced the fuel pump & rebuilt the carburetor. Had the alternator rebuilt, changed the regulator & replaced
the starter, again to play it safe.

A full new dual exhaust system was put on, all the brakes were rebuilt, new seals/fuild in the rear end & we serviced the
transmission. I'm quite sure I'm forgetting some things, come's with old age - LOL. Oh yea, 4 new radial RWL tires & 4 new
shocks - told ya LOL.

Now to the rest of the body as we ran out of winter. Basically there's tiny rust bubbles at the corners of the doors outside,
bottoms are very solid. Needs one small patch at the bottom of each fender. These areas are definitely repairable. The hood
was damaged on the front lip something in it's pervious history & the repair wasn't the greatest by any means. Yes it can be
repaired, but if it with me doing the job - I'd locate a good used hood. I've used the reproductions out on the market & it just takes to long getting them just right. To me not worth the added effort.

Well I believe that does it, I sure hope so - as I've been at it for well over an hour - LOL - no seriously if you have a question or two, please feel free to ask. I'd like to get $16,500.00 or something quite close.

Personal & qualified 3rd party inspections are welcome. Overseas buyers are welcome. Photos available upon request. Contact Dan through this site or call 845-546-5523 up to 9pm EST. Located New York 12590 USA

Introduce Myself (1 reply)

1MACH2NV — Sun, 28 Oct 2012 21:59:17 -0500

Hello FordFirst Family;
My name is Dan aka 1MACH2NV writing you from Wappingers Falls NY where the family & I are waiting from Mega Storm Sandy
to hit land. Yup got the genertor at the ready, plenty of water, milk & bread. Oh yea plenty of reading material too - LOL.

I'm a mechanic / machinist by trade, but decided 20 some years ago - to go into antique, classic & muscle car restoration.
Second best thing I did in my life other then marrying my High School sweetie 40 years ago & raising 5 children.

With the help of my youngest son Matthew, 1 own/operate a very modest 60x40 restoration shop called Dream Car Automotive/
Restoration in Milton,NY

Also with the help of my son Matthew, we have compiled a modest collection of classics & muscle cars. We enjoy car shows,
cruise nights, drag racing, baseball/football, fishing/camping when time allows, close friends & definitely family as we raised 5 children & have 8 grandkids - LOL.

Our newest member to the collection is a Grabber Blue 71 Mustang 429CJ-RA Mach 1 w/4-speed & A/C. I rescued the Mach from
a chicken coop early last year in upstate NY where it had been sitting idle since 1980 with 33,000 miles. Two weeks ago my son & I started what is to be a full blown OE restoration.

Thank you for a chance to say hi "HI" & have a very fine day.

A Couple Of Old Woodys (2 replies)

OldBloke — Sun, 16 Sep 2012 22:08:33 -0500

A 1933 and a 1941.

Fords I Could Love (no replies)

OldBloke — Wed, 12 Sep 2012 21:02:50 -0500

Pal of mine maintains a car collection up valley. Occassionally calls on me to help exercise 'em.
1st pic is a 41 woody with stroked Chevy 350 (sorry purists). 2nd pic is very well sorted Cobra 427 kit with genuine side oiler 427.

Can any tell me how many GT's are out there ???? (1 reply)

Onyxdog — Wed, 26 Sep 2012 16:15:56 -0500

Hello every one,

I am new to the site but not the web.last fall I picked up a 1964 consul cortina GT from the 1st owner with 52k miles a few dent fromsitting ia barn for thepast 20+ years lots of dust and almost no rust thebody is very solid . Any way I worked on it most of the winter and now have it running but I still need to work a few bugs out but she sure is zippy.what I would like to ask is this can any one tell me how many were shipped? From what I have found is it aint many. Any way I took it to the all ford show last weekend at the world HQ in Dearborn mi, and had a lot of "what the heck is it?" I love this car and it is a real head turner when ever I take it for a spin
Any way thanks for looking

Beating a dead horse [bronco] (no replies)

mrbarry — Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:31:01 -0500

firing up the ford [93 bronco]this summer i discovered that the AC was INOP . the low pressure switch on the system was functioning

for my purpose needing AC for long haul

i got this product to add..

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/480/t/r12-substitute-super-alternate-ac-recharge-kit/details.asp

i was planning on pulling vacuum on the system , however when i got the gauge in i found i had positive pressure [ though low] in the system/.

proper behavior would have been to go to a proper certified shop and had the r12 recovered . no proper shops around here . they would have just out gassed the r12.
then done a proper recharge with r134 and all subsequent behavior most proper. however this is shade tree mechanics
i care not to discuss the legality and advisability of my process.

i added a can of oil .. with that addition of oil and +working+ fluid the low pressure switch engaged full AC compressor function . .. added a can of +stop leak+ a n 'O' ring sweller [ i can see oil and grim accumulation at a particular place. its been that way for years and i been bitching to Ford Factory mechs

added one can of the working fluid

the supplied gauge was showing about 70 PSI on the low side .[way above the green] ''
i considered .. measured temps all around in the engine compartment with my IR gun .. abt 195F

measured out put temps on the AC .. showing in the 70's F..[ ambient was 95F ]

upped engine RPM from idle to +road speed + 2500 rpm , observed that the low pressure reading on the AC fell to abt 45 PSI [ IN THE GREEN] . went in to cabin and held 2500 RPM and measured AC fell to the 60's ..

how excellent i thought ..wife came by and said "whats that leaking' I GOT OUT TO OBSERVE ..

catastrophic failure of the engine cooling system[radiator]
see pics ..

i think i was 4-5 feet back when the radiator failed ,, top hose waved in the air and spewed hot coolant . i took some in the face .. went right away and put cold water on my face .. then aloevera .. you may or not know about aloe. its a gel .. and is healing and cools but is a bit slimy .. i went back out and my wife saw me with the slime aloe streaming off my face and thought it was all the skin o my face falling off ..

just like canning tomatoes i told her..

what a good joke.. heh.. not to say if you take live steam in the face all the skin wont slide off . in that case emergency evacuation is indicated ..

i just put my face in a pan of ice water and drank half jug of vodka..

conclusion

plastic radiators get weak in time .

maybe any old ford operator be advised to drop the pressure on pressure rerlease cap a little .
im just as happy the rad failed in the parking lot as in a big city stau .. or at 7K feet rock crawling in the outback

though id just as soon not took the charge in my face.. i took some frags off that explosion too

takes 2 bolts to pull the rad, 2 screws to pull the shroud .. plus the radiator hoses . such an easy excange one thinks it was +expected+

How does the Ford Ecoboost system work? (2 replies)

Skye — Thu, 13 Dec 2012 18:13:10 -0600

I was asking myself this question and came across this great in-depth explanation over at Jalopnik:

Today we made our way over to Ford's Beech Daly Technical Center, a nondescript building along the Dearborn side roads which houses what is, for lack of a better term, Ford's engine skunk works. Capable of doing everything from rapid-prototyped vinyl intakes to turning out fully functioning engines, the tech center is where all Ford's engines go to get the bugs worked out. Our mission was to get to know the 3.5-liter Ford EcoBoost on a nuts-and-bolts level by putting one together ourselves.

We met up with Patrick Hespen from SVT communications, who guided us through the rows of workbenches stacked high with engine parts from every imaginable engine product. Deep in the back was a set of parts which, when fully assembled, would form a production-intent twin-turbocharged, 340 HP, 340 lb-ft Ford EcoBoost engine. You know, the one they're touting as a V6 which delivers the power of a V8. The beauty of the EcoBoost system is that it takes relatively few changes to go from a standard 3.5-liter V6 to a fire-breathing, twin-turbo monster developing peak torque at 1500 RPM. What it all boils down to is the combination of direct injection and two turbos. Those two main updates drive the smaller, but smartly executed, changes around them.

So, let's follow the fuel through the engine: The first difference the gas sees is the addition of a mechanically actuated, high-pressure fuel pump. The pump rides on top of the drivers' side cylinder bank and gets its motive power from a four-sided cam lobe, brilliantly added to the intake cam. The fuel then passes into a high-pressure (like 3000 PSI high) stainless-steel common fuel rail to which is mounted three injectors, one assembly per side. The injectors are mounted to the underside of the cylinder head and poke into the distal edge of the compression chamber.

Since the system direct-injects fuel into the chamber, games can be played with the actual flow of the spray. For instance, on start up, when the engine is cold and the catalysts aren't functioning, the engine injects a half-shot of fuel into chamber on the downward stroke of the intake cycle, then, as the piston comes back for ignition, a second half-shot is fired at the piston head. Notice the shape of top of the piston (sans the CNC'd EcoBoost logo): The little trough is designed specifically to ramp that secondary spray at the spark plug — the result is a locally rich mixture good for ignition, but a globally lean mixture, great for making heat fast.

As the spent fuel leaves the combustion chamber, it meets another innovative feature: a stainless steel, stamped and welded two-walled exhaust manifold. The manifold is much lighter than its cast counterparts, but more importantly, its insulative properties keep the exhaust hotter, transferring more energy directly to the turbo. Speaking of the turbo, surprisingly, when we get to the turbo we find nothing notably exciting. The impeller side of turbo itself is made of a high-nickel-content alloy good for an operating temperature up to 1750 degrees Fahrenheit. The compressor side, while rated up to 220,000 rpm maximum speed, isn't really all that different than the one found on every other turbo on the market.

Since the gas is spent, we're going to hop onto the intake air side now. That air gets compressed by the two turbos we just met, and then joins in a common tube. That tube has an electronic boost controller which dumps excess pressure electronically, instead of the "Fast and Furious" approved vacuum-driven blow-off valve. The air then makes it's way into an air-to-air intercooler, and the cooled air heads off to an all-new intake manifold, optimized for compact packaging and easy assembly. An interesting feature is the integration of the coolant pipe which runs under the whole length of the intake; it attaches at the rear to the coolant line in the valley and locates the thermostat and outlet for the heater core out of the way. Anyway, that air gets directed straight into the cylinders by valves enhanced with Inconel alloy for greater strength.

Because we're engine geeks, there are myriad little details and upgrades we could go on about, like the addition of piston head oil sprayers, used to keep the piston head cool by hitting the bottom side with oil, and how they're brilliantly integrated into the crankshaft bearing oil pocket. Or the million miles of durability testing the engine has already undergone. Or the crazy ability to retard the timing up to 20 degrees...but we won't. We're happy to sit back and let the pictures do the rest of the talking, eagerly awaiting the day we get to put that bonkers power curve to the test.

Member Map improved, Find Owners in Your Area (no replies)

Skye — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:50:24 -0500

Just a quick note to let you know I've improved the Member Map area of the website, it now only shows members that either registered, or have signed in on this website, instead of ALL members across the entire AutoShrine.com family of auto websites. Check it out, add your pin!

http://www.fordfirst.com/member/map.php

(You may have to zoom out with the "-" button if there aren't any other owners in your area yet. Click and drag the map to move)

Skye

1958 Ford Ranchero (no replies)

OldBloke — Fri, 29 Jun 2012 16:33:35 -0500

This old beauty has been around town since I drove up in mid 60s. Original owner and his only daily driver. The car was a trendsetting development and and destined to become a classic ride.

1950 Ford Prefect $2000 [Los Angeles, CA] (no replies)

Skye — Sat, 02 Jun 2012 13:36:20 -0500

Not mine, just passing it along... see the link below for contact info

1950 English Ford Prefect four door, right hand drive, cool looking car. It has a 4-cylinder datsun engine and transmission. Gas Saver! Its been sitting in my back yard have no time for it. needs a battery and clean carb. Regestration is on non opp. Looks like a Anglia. Any question text or call me at 562-360-2325. Asking $2000 OBO Thanks Bert

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/3049983159.html

1951 Ford Prefect on BaT (no replies)

OldBloke — Tue, 22 May 2012 21:08:36 -0500

I am sooo tempted...! My 2nd car ever bought!

http://bringatrailer.com/2012/05/21/1951-ford-prefect-sedan/

fuel gauge calibration (no replies)

1jetmech — Tue, 08 May 2012 22:20:51 -0500

Hi, all! I have a 68 Bronco, I want to know if there is any adjustment for the fuel gauge?
When it is full it reads 3/4 of a tank, when it's about empty it reads way below E. Any ideas?

Thanks, Brian

1953-1955 mercury steering wheel for sale [winston salem NC, USA] (no replies)

jerrybev — Thu, 03 May 2012 23:33:09 -0500

1953, 1954, 1955 Mercury steering wheel, very good condition, $100 plus mailing. 336-608-2954, Mocksville, N.C.

Hello,Hello! (no replies)

smalltiger — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 21:48:15 -0500

Hello everyone,
As a newcomer, i am very glad to be here. i hope that someone have good news can share with me.
Thank you!

Getting and maintaining a Late ‘40’s Ford? (no replies)

TomTxState — Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:02:53 -0500

Hi All,

As you can see I am not a Ford owner, but I am thinking about a late ‘40’s Ford. For me, this would be a nostalgia thing. My father owned what I believe was a 46–48 Ford Deluxe 4-Door.

How available are parts for this kind of vintage?

Remember this is new to me. I am an MG owner, and third party parts are easy to get.

Thanks

New here.... (no replies)

kirks-auto — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 07:20:29 -0600

See some familiar names from some of the Skyesters other forums...one notably in Napa...

Just saw this and thougt I'd post my blue oval interests. Family's first car 1955 Ford Custom with 3 speed slush box...what I learned to drive and filched at times in the early morning hours with my pal up the street to learn to drive "on my own"....if Dad knew, it was the best kept secret ever and today I don't know I was really that smart...will never know for sure.

1965 Mustang GT...my third car, bought at about age 19...should have taken better care of her. 1966 Mustang convertible...paid exactly $125 for a 100K mile car with bad front seal in the C4 trans...hoped to repair front end on the crashed GT but didn't figure some things correctly....money and time off the top. Kept the old girl for 35 years and sold on Efee 2 years ago to Canada...$4000 and they had it running in 3 days...anothe testament to the worth blue oval.

1968 Intermeccanica Omega...289 Ford powered Italian import. One of only 40 made with links to Holman and Moody where the HP and std small blocks and running gear were dropped in. Interesting story when GM came after the company for infringement on the name court ruled in favor the my maker, Holman and Moody saw the chance to bail AND recoup $$$, hired hand finished the last 10 or so. I met in in Charlotte a few years back and he has the very last example in his stable.

1969 Detomasso Mangusta 1 of about 400. Predecessor of the Pantera with a 302 mid/rear engine and ZF trans axle. My particular car was the subject of a magazine article about the owner of the company, entitled Alajandro's Spruce Goose. Would like a copy but refuse to pay the $10 the issue demands on Efee or buying a years worth of the mag for $25 and pay shipping...maybe some day....but I refuse to be gouged for yard sale items in celebration of a car I personally own when there is real $ needed to maintain the car.

Alajandro Detomasso was the South American race horse breeder who rotated into car building and whose biz was rescued when Lincoln Mercury dealers started offering the Pantera on their floor plan. They reissued the Mangusta name sake a few years ago and it was a dismal disappointment. AD died just a couple years ago and I believe the company is no more.

Thus my current stock of "Ford hybrids" are all orphans but well housed.

Classic British Cars - One Lady Owner (Video) (2 replies)

Skye — Thu, 31 Jan 2013 16:01:05 -0600

Fun little documentary about the Morris Minor, Standard 8, Triumph Herald, Ford Anglia, Riley Elf in the era of the new compact "family" cars and the independence it gave to many women for the first time

Video: Ford EVOS Concept Car (1 reply)

Skye — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 03:02:33 -0500

A surprisingly lovely design from Ford: Evos Concept showcases Ford’s first truly global design language and a new vision for customer-focused and intuitive technologies

The doors are pretty amazing:

first SHO owner on this forum? (no replies)

Sleipnir — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 19:19:09 -0600

Great job expanding Skye! As you can see I've been a member for long enough to remember when it was just the MGB experience. I currently own and drive a variety of Fords, MGs and Triumphs, but my daily winter driver for the past 8 years has been a Gen 1 90 SHO.
I know their are other British car guys out there running SHOs too, so hopefully someone else will start posting here.
I'm a full time British car mechanic and own Her Majesty's Auto Service (soon to be relocated from Swansea, MA to Pawtucket, RI) and do all the work on my Taurus myself. I'm not a Ford factory tech who's worked on these cars since they were new, but living with one for 45k+ miles has taught me some things about them.
My SHO is Black on Black with sunroof and regular climate control. It currently has over 195,000 miles on it and runs as strong as ever.
The only mods I've done are a drop in K&N filter and a rod shifter conversion (I put a Dynomax exhaust on it but it has since rotted away). I had to do some things to it when I bought it in 2003 for $500 with 147K on it. I replaced the clutch (it was actually a bad release bearing), subframe bushings, brakes all around with all lines, exhaust, 60k service, plugs and wires and stereo head unit (JBL speakers and amp were and are still kicking). Now I'm on my 2nd exhaust and have done some other maintenance, but I still likely have less than 3 grand into over the time I've owned it.
It'll cruise all day at 100 or get 27mpg at 70. It may not be quick by today's standards but it still surprises plenty of people at the lights or the kids on the interstate in their hopped up econoboxes who pull alongside and slow down to see if I'm willing to try them. When I drop to 3rd and floor it and powershift at 95 they're usually in my mirrors trying to figure out what just happened.
I love my SHO and when it finally dissolves into the earth I will be looking for another Gen 1 from somewhere outside of the rust belt to replace it.

for sale: 1957 Ford hub caps, wheel covers, (no replies)

jerrybev — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 05:54:39 -0600

set of four 1957 Ford hub caps, 14" in very good condition $75 plus mailing, 336-765-8312 or 336-749-5922, Winston Salem NC email: wwhitfield@triad.rr.com

1950 F-1 (2 replies)

Curmudgeon — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:19:31 -0500

Finally got a photo up. Bought it 22 years ago (had to go look), yanked the six out shortly thereafter, dropped a 239 in it. Then, decided to put a 255 in about 6 years ago. Grille was mangled upon arrival, finally found another, lovely bride stated she like blue, so For Blue it is. Counting the heater ducting, it was like 40 bolts holding it in, none of which had been out since 1950......lot of work, but it's in. Drive it often...gotta find time to drive all three.

F-1! (no replies)

Curmudgeon — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:43:57 -0500

I'll have to get a photo up. Had this 1950 for....26 or 27 years, still plugs along. Soon as the listing of vehicles shows "F-1" I'll list it.....'cause it sure ain't an F-100!
I had pictures, but the last computer explosion took the latest unsaved entries out.

First Ford engined MGB GT V8 conversion (no replies)

Chilipadi — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 05:20:25 -0500

I am researching the MGB GT V8 and was wondering if anyone can tell me (or at least point me in the direction of someone who can) when the first conversion of an MGB GT to Ford V8 engine was done.

Ideally I would like to get some form of proof of it's construction (ideally as a series by a car conversion specialist or other). I need to prove that 2 MGB GTs were converted to Ford V8 engines and what type of engine (289, 302, 351...) before 12.31.1988.

Cheers

drew

Thunder Road (1 reply)

OldBloke — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:22:48 -0500

Remember this cult movie featuring now classic "hot" Fords?

Classic or...? (4 replies)

OldBloke — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 06:59:58 -0600

Rumbles around my 'hood.

Ford Phaeton V8 (1 reply)

OldBloke — Sun, 08 May 2011 14:36:59 -0500

This is in a collection maintained by a pal of mine. Like the one a famous gangster (don't remember which) sent a thank you note to Henry Ford for making such a fast getaway car.

Hill Climbin'/Dirt Trackin' Cortina (no replies)

OldBloke — Sun, 08 May 2011 11:34:30 -0500

Back in the day when the world was younger and so was I...! Lotta fun with this bullet proof old beastie.

My 1st Ford (1 reply)

OldBloke — Sun, 08 May 2011 14:45:25 -0500

Once I got it started was pretty reliable old ride. '50 or '51 Prefect?...Perfect? Can't recall. Anybody know?

Video: How It Works: The All-Electric Focus (no replies)

Skye — Tue, 03 May 2011 17:48:48 -0500

"The Focus Electric runs exclusively on electricity stored in powerful, state-of-the-art batteries, which means it never needs a drop of gas.
- Powered by a 23 kwh high-voltage, lightweight lithium-ion battery system.
- Regenerative Braking captures energy during braking and recycles it to recharge the battery.
- Charges with the available 240-volt charging station or standard 120-volt convenience cord"

2012 Ford Focus- Active Grille Shutter (1 reply)

Skye — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 21:11:56 -0500

Pretty cool feature for a road car...

1940 ford truck title (1 reply)

jerrybev — Sat, 06 Apr 2013 16:29:07 -0500

1940 ford truck title for sale $50 for the auto literature, auto paper collector, for memorabilia purposes only.
336-765-8312, wwhitfield@triad.rr.com

Ford Cars For Sale - Free Classifieds (no replies)

Skye — Wed, 13 Apr 2011 16:28:17 -0500

Free Classifieds

Want to buy or sell a Ford Mustang, Thunderbird, Truck or any other model?

This website now has FREE Ford Cars For Sale classifieds:

Ford Cars For Sale

All classified listings are automatically published to the Oodle Network and over 250 partner sites including CarDomain, Cox Interactive, Media General, The Washington Post, San Diego Union Tribune, Military.com and Lycos for free! It's a great to sell your car.

How to list your car for sale:

Create a registry entry for it, click the "This vehicle is For Sale" checkbox and add a price. Remember that listings with a price and photos sell a lot faster.

Want to buy or sell used car parts?

Check out the Trader Forum.

1968 California special (no replies)

raymud — Sun, 06 Mar 2011 14:25:20 -0600

A good friend of mine who is ill at this time has asked if I could sell his mustang . It has been sitting for some time looks to be a very clean car.Supposedly this car was raced by Parnely Jones at LagonaSeca in1968 in a showroom stock car race. looking for some input as to worth Thanks raymud@aol.com(707)537-8635 Ray

New Library Article: EEC IV Truck Codes (no replies)

Skye — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 15:52:08 -0600

New Library Article:

EEC IV Truck Codes

Finding parts for the car Ford swears they didn't build. (no replies)

favedave — Sat, 22 Jan 2011 14:23:12 -0600

The 93 to 97 Ford Probe GT 5-Speed is one great automobile. They are however and always have been expensive to maintain. This is complicated by the fact that the change to OBD-2 diagnostic ports in 1996 eliminated easy diagnostics of things like Oxygen Sensors or any programmable tuning so far as I've discovered.

My 95 GT is my second. I had a dark blue 94 GT for six years. Wrecked it. Swore I'd never get such a high maintenance POS again. Every repair, went the six-year running-joke, was $1,200. Went through a couple of beater Hyundias (lots of fun actually until they became terminally ill) And my wife said, "I want another Probe. We finally settled on this one.

Thank God all of the replacement stuff these things need are available now from the usual autoparts houses (Autozone seems to be the best)at prices that are eminently more affordable than when I was driving the 94 (Ya gotta go to da dealer for dat, its $1,200.)

The down side is that Ford also stocks no parts for the cars or even admits the Probe has a Ford Logo on it. Everyone sez go to Mazda (626 V6)
But I've had even less luck with them.

Now here is the big problem, Anything made of plastic on the exterior of the car has become brittle with age. My wife ran it through a brushless pressure washer car wash and blew the drivers door bottom to bits. I cannot find any replacements.

Does anybody know a source for all things Probe? I have technical questions as well and found the MGE forum a diamond mine of information from knowledgable members and a source for all those things my MGB-GT needs.

Dave

1999 Escort Engine TOAST!! (no replies)

Sphartin — Sat, 20 Nov 2010 18:12:45 -0600

I have been tearing apart my sister in law's engine to see what happened. Looks like the cylinder wall failed in two places. The piston is all chewed up, broke apart at the connecting rod pin, bent the connecting rod...TOAST! I imagine that the machine shop prefers that the cylinder walls are intact to try and sleave it.

New Library Article: Car Batteries 101 (no replies)

Skye — Thu, 18 Nov 2010 19:21:44 -0600

New Library Article:

Car Batteries 101

F350 suspension clanking (4 replies)

lhess — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 02:56:02 -0500

I have a 1995 F350 diesel crew cab dually 2 wheel drive, that lately has had a clanking under drivers side on suspension movements, braking, and turning. I replaced the shocks last year, still there afterwards. The noise is getting worse and I can feel it through the floorboards under my feet. I have checked tightness of bolts, nuts, shock mounts, etc.. Any idea what this is? I even had a shop take a look and they said they could not find anything loose. Thanks, Lloyd

replacing plugs on Taurus DOHC (no replies)

mac townsend — Wed, 17 Nov 2010 11:03:59 -0600

The sidewinder engine makes it awkward to get at the back 3 plugs (numbered 1-2-3, by the way, front of engine -- right/passenger side -- to the rear).

Here's the procedure for the very similar Escape, grabbed from another ford forum.

Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be time consuming. Allow 2-4 hours depending on your skill level. The upper intake manifold must be removed to get to the rear plugs.

You will need 6 spark plugs (Motorcraft only) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.

1. Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3, 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs.

2. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.

3. Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.

4. Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.

5. Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.

6. Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control). Un-clip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.

7. Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.

8. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.

9. Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.

10. Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.

11. Un-clip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.

12. Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.

13. Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.

14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.

15. Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.

16. Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.

17. Remove the bolts and COPs.

18. It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.

19. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.

20. Check the new spark plugs with a gaping tool to .052-.056". Do not adjust them, take them back for another plug. It is not advisable to gap platinum plugs. Damage can occur.

21. Install the new spark plugs. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.

22. A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Cross-threading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft lbs or 132 lb in, use an Inch Pound torque wrench

23. also recommended replacing the COP boots and springs. It's short money and there is less risk of arcing. Lastly while it's all apart take a look at the PCV hose and replace if necessary. It's much easier to replace when your in this deep

24. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.

25. Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs or 7.5 ft.lbs. Do not over tighten.

26. Use dielectric grease in the end of the rubber spark plug boots before the coils are assembled.

27. Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.

28. Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.

29. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.

30. Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about the $2-300 you just saved!

New Library Article: Battery Storage, Fact or Fiction? (no replies)

Skye — Thu, 04 Nov 2010 15:04:38 -0500

New Library Article: Battery Storage, Fact or Fiction?
http://www.fordfirst.com/article/storing-battery-on-concrete.html

CEO of Ford, Alan Mullaly (1 reply)

Sphartin — Thu, 04 Nov 2010 15:04:06 -0500

Back in May I had the opportunity to hear Alan Mullaly as a keynote speaker at the ASQ World conference in St. Louis and I have to say I was greatly impressed. Most keynote speakers including CEO's and Founders of other companies had fairly canned presentations, one so practiced (but very interesting) that I wondered just how many times he had given it. On the other hand, Mr. Mullaly talked a little about an article that was in the July 2009 issue of Foutune magazine but then opened the forum to field questions from the audience for about 45 minutes. I am a experienced quality engineer with a degree in business and working on an MBA and I have to admit I was impressed by his answers. It is because of how Ford handled the downturn and of Mr. Mullaly that I am proud to be a Ford fan.

New Library Article: Mustangs List FAQ (no replies)

Skye — Mon, 01 Nov 2010 16:52:37 -0500

New Library Article posted:

Mustangs List FAQ

oil pressure drops off at 65mph-fresh rebuild (2 replies)

SLICK1967 — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:36:49 -0500

had the oil pressure gauge drop to low at 65 mph but no noise or loss of power.any ideas?

howdy (1 reply)

mrbarry — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 09:23:48 -0500

1993 Inline 6 300 CID 5 speed manual ,limited slip front and rear , extended range fuel tanks[ 50 gallons on-board] .. 170,000 miles or so on the odo. been through 2 transfer cases ,one transmission and an alternator , but the engine does not use any oil at all, i can run it for a year with Mobil 1 and never add a quart ,
this old thing has been up the creek and over the mountain more than once

New Library Article: Frequently Used EEC-IV Abbreviations (no replies)

Skye — Mon, 18 Oct 2010 16:39:09 -0500

New Library Article posted:

Frequently Used EEC-IV Abbreviations

Wanted: Rear Disk Brakes (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 14:24:03 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Dan Howley/HQ/3Com <(email redacted)>

With announced demise of the mustangs list I'm resending this
message over here. Apologies to those that have seen it before.

With some of you more hard-core trackies getting the new Cobra
brake upgrade, somebody should have a set of rear disk brakes left
over. Well I'd be happy to buy them and take them off your hands.
Am looking for all the parts that go on the back of the car, like
disks, calipers w/ E-brakes, E-brake cables, brackets, and any
flexlines you may have. Don't need the master cylinder or the
automatic E-brake adjuster defeater, and don't care about the pad
condition. Want to use my original 15 inch telephone dial wheels
along with the stock axles so the kit must be of the 4-lug variety.

Thinking someone must be punting their old SSB or Motorsports
package in favor of the Cobra stuff, and the last thing you want is a
cluttered garage. Let me help you clean it out and keep the peace
with your SO. If you live in the South SF Bay Area I might even be
able to help you wrench when you go to install your kit. Contact
me by private email and I'm sure we can work something out. Feel
free to pass this request on to anyone else who may have a set to
sell and isn't on the list. Thanks!

(email redacted) 85GT Santa Clara, Ca.

'95 Ranger problem (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 23:39:27 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Robert King)

Well my fiancee' is the proud owner of a brand-new '95 Ranger (dark blue
with a saddle interior.) Everything seems OK except for a strance cooling
problem that cropped up this afternoon.

The truck seems to run normally and does not exhibit any signs of
overheating, but after a few minutes of idling (after starting the engine
cold,) the coolant temp guage as about at mid-sweep, then it ROCKETS all
the way to top of the scale! (By "rockets" I mean it moves from mid-scale
to fully pegged in about 1.5 seconds.) I *suspect* it is a wierded-out
sending unit or a bad connection. I've pretty much eliminated everything
else I can think of:

- Coolant level checks out. Even my fiancee' knew to check this, but it
COULD have been underfilled at the factory.

- Water pump seems OK. No leaks are visible, and its not venting steam.
With the engine off, I let the truck sit with the heater on. After the
water in the heater core had cooled off, the engine was started and hot
air almost immediately came out.

- Thermostat looks good too. Early on I suspected this because with the
needle pegged, the air coming from the back of the radiator was
stone-cold, as were both tanks (that radiator's TINY!) Aster a minute
or two of idling though, the air being sucked through it felt hot, as
did the tanks.

- I SUPPOSE a great big glob of sand could have been left over in the
casting process and worked its way somewhere important, but how likely
is this? This is a WAG for me (WAG = Wild-Assed Guess.)

I'd really like your opinions. The truck's going to the dealership
tomorrow via Ford's roadside assistance program, but I'd like to have
a better idea of the situation (forewarned is forearmed!)

Thanks!
Robert King

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Robert A. King | |
| Systems Software Engineer | "Dulce et decorum est en |
| Kodak Health Imaging Systems | medio coitu mori" |
| (email redacted) | -- Nelson Rockefeller |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The opinions expressed here ain't even mine, much less my employer's! |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+

Anyone looking for EFI stuff... (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 17:14:13 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

I saw a message in the "(email redacted)" list from
a guy who found some FORD EFI parts in his shed that he was letting
a renter use... Apparantly, the renter skated town and left the
parts. The poster wanted to sell the stuff to get back some back
rent... If I remember right, I think he said he saw "Cobra" on the
manifold, or maybe it was "GT-40"... Anyway, anyone interested
could send a message to the address above asking for info...

Also, I have a 302 EFI Bronco motor and all it's components for
sale, along with an AOD 4speed tranny, 8.8" axle and other parts.
I'd like to sell them to help finance my 460 EFI Swap...
SMD

Early '64 VIN (1 reply)

mailbot — Fri, 26 May 1995 00:53:41 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Timothy N. Taylor" <(email redacted)>

I don't have a VIN code book at my disposal and I would like to
identify how far back they used sequential numbers in the VIN codes.
Specifically a '64 with the last six numbers 100975 (ie. is it #975) and
an offhand guess at it's value. It's a A code 289 4bbl with a stock 4
speed and Rally Pack. Also what carburator should it have? No I don't
own it but I wish I did. Thank you to anyone who can shed light on this.

Tim Taylor (email redacted)

ADMIN: Fordnatics list moving for real! (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 16:30:44 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Chuck Fry <(email redacted)>

Thanks to all the guinea pigs for their help in shaking down the new
Fordnatics list. There have been a couple of glitches but nothing major
has gone wrong. So I'm going to finish the job shortly.

I will move the digest subscribers first. When that is complete,
subscribers to the regular list will be moved. This should happen
without any action required on your part.

There may be a brief period in which you get multiple copies of
messages. This is unavoidable. With any luck it will also be brief.

I'll have another announcement when the move has been completed with the
new posting and request addresses. Until then, continue to post to:
(email redacted)

If you wish to report an urgent problem during this transition, mail to
me at (email redacted).

Wish me luck...
-- Chuck Fry, Fordnatics list moving man

upolstry q (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 22:28:25 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: TRBOBRD <(email redacted)>

Is there a paint or dye that I could use to bring my faded cloth
seats back to life. The top of the rear seat is blue (was charcoal
black), and the sides of the front seatbacks are starting to do the same
thing.

I think its time to tint the windows!! On that note, does anyone know of
a tinting kit to do the rear window without bubbles and lines?
thx.
******************************************************************************
=-->GoocH<--=
'88 T-bird T forTURBO!
*Alpine*Rockford Fosgate*Coustic*Sony*Audiovox*Jensen*
'93 Trek 9000
1967 Datsun 2000
(email redacted) Bryan Berndt
*****************************************************************************

The end of an era: Mustangs list closes down (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 16:21:49 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Chuck Fry <(email redacted)>

As anticipated, Gary Gitzen has announced the Mustangs list will be shut
down later this week. Say what you will about Gary's moderating style,
but he did provide a remarkably well-mannered forum where people could
swap questions, answers, race reports, and tall tales about their late
model Mustangs.

I made many friends and learned more than I should admit from the
Mustangs list. And of course Gary's work provided the inspiration for
the Fordnatics list.

This is truly the end of an era on the 'Net. Thanks for the good times,
Gary. I'll miss your list.
-- Chuck

C-4 behind 2.3L turbo (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 17:47:43 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

I need to know what it takes to put a C-4 behind a Ford 2.3L turbo engine.
Can it be done with stock parts? What about flex plate, bellhousing,
converter?

Thanks.

All this B.S. (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 21:03:27 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: HANNA JONATHAN DAVID <(email redacted)>

Personally I think you guys have generated twice the amount of junk mail
by bitching about this subscribe/unsubscribe thing than I have seen in
the year or so I've been listening to this list. Chuck does a great job
and I understand his frustration, but the rest of you guys are creating
more of a pain by babbling about it.
I'm more fed up listening to all of you who "follow the rules"
than anything alse so I'm unsubscribing myself. (and yes I sent the
appropriate message to the appropriate adress.)

Jonathan Hanna
(email redacted)

67 Cougar XR-7 GT 390
67 Cougar GT 390
69 Cougar 351
68 Mustang 200
66 Mustang 289
68 Mustang High Country Special

try again! (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 16:15:49 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

From: SHV1::TREDWARB 25-MAY-1995 14:12:27.22
To: ESDS01::"(email redacted)"
CC: TREDWARB
Subj: 0-100-0 times

At 1250 lbs, 800+hp and big tires, the F1 gets my vote as best candidate for
the 0-100-0 wars.

The only other possible contender was that 65 Impala with the JATO bottle
and the cliff!!

Ron Tredway

Reputable dealer recommendation needed (1 reply)

mailbot — Fri, 26 May 1995 00:24:36 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "CarloJP" <(email redacted)>

Does anyone have a recommendation for a dealer with a good service rep
in or near upper Fairfield county in Connecticut?

I have an 88 Taurus LX with the 3.8L engine. I had a new Ford
compressor installed last summer and it's still under warrantee. The
compressor is leaking and won't hold a charge. All the seals in the
AC lines have been replaced with the _good_ o-rings. It needs either
a new AC compressor, or new compressor seals. How much should this
kind of work cost? The location of the compressor makes the job
difficult.

Any advice is appreciated.

Jim

BTW, how much do you think I could get for this monster?
approx 75K miles, 3.8L, ps, pb, power windows, locks & sunroof,
digital dash, keyless entry, AC, heated windsheild, gray leather
interior, split bench power seats w/lumbar support, alloy rims, almost
new all-season radials, gray metallic two tone paint with no rust,
very clean inside and out.

Tranny swap? (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 19:57:05 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Tom Stangler <(email redacted)>

Tom Reynolds stroked the keyboard.....
= At the risk of sounding completely stupid (but
= at least not trying to unsubscribe here! :) what is involved in trying
= to put a 5 speed in? (I am totally trans-clueless)

lets see if I can take a stab at some of the parts required...

-T-5 transmission
shifter, shifter boot,
-clutch assembly
clutch, disk, pressureplate, clutch fork
-flywheel
-clutch pedal assembly
quadrant, paul, cable, under dash braketry
-driveshaft
-computer
-speedo cable?
vss sensor?

anyone else add/delete to this list?
- --
***************************************************************************
Tom Stangler | 86 Mustang GT, C Prepared the Thunder class
QC Mngr, TRACOR | -----------------------------------------------------
Va Beach, VA | Tidewater Sports Car Club, LTD (email redacted)
(email redacted) | "The RAT Weekend" Autox June 03/04 @ Fentress

Tracer suspension questions (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 10:11:54 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Jim Heaton <(email redacted)>

I've gotten such valuable and knowledgable information here in the
past I'm going to post another question.

My '91 Tracer LTS has 50K miles. I drive it dialy on a moderately
bumpy dirt road. Just tha last few days it seems that when my right
front tire hits a bump much more vibration is transmitted throughout
the vehicle. Driveability is fine except tracking around bumpy corners
is poor.

My amateur diagnosis is that I've blown a seal on the front passenger
strut. How can I verify this (the "bounce" test I used on my shock
equipped vehicles). If the struts do need replacement should I change
just the front 2 or all 4?

I'd love to slowly upgrade the vehicle to a bit better than factory
performance. Adding COMP T/A's added a huge performance differential
in terms of acceleration (hook up and radial). If I'm replacing
struts can I just do the cartridges? It there something that will be
better than the factory units without giving me a harsh ride?

Thanks for any ideas.
-Jim

*****************************************************************
This is a test of the emergency .sig system. This is only a test.

Jim Heaton (email redacted) AA8RF
*****************************************************************

0-100-0 (WasCapri Info Revisit (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 15:25:06 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Walt Boeninger)

[from "Brian St. Denis"]
>> Hell, I
>> bet and indy car or F1 car could do 0-100-0 in 10 seconds or less.
>

Before this gets too carried away:

1) The qualifier of PRODUCTION car is a key item.
2) The 427 Cobra 0-100-0 time was under 14 seconds, not 10.

So what production cars have been able to beat the Cobra? Perhaps
a Diablo, or F-40...I don't recall...

- -----
Regards

Walt Boeninger Phone: (415) 691-3394 (800) 477-6222
Hewlett Packard Company E-Mail: (email redacted)

Intermittent brake problem (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 17:08:35 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (D ROBERTSON)

Dear Fordnatics:
I have a 86 Crown Vic (non-police) with ~70k miles .Every few months
the brake pedal will not go down when pressed (this makes for an
exciting few seconds w/ the family in the car). You have to really stomp
your foot down to get them to work. You can hear a pang noise from the
rear then they work fine for a few more months. I have replaced the
shoes , springs & adjusters. I have also checked the vacuum booster,
master cylinder and wheel cylinders, these check okay. I looked under
the dash to check for interference with the pedal linkage but did not
see any thing obvious. The vehicle is 100% stock (except for the kid's
car seats).
Any suggestions would be welcome ,I do not want to resort to
swaptology to find the problem. Thanks
Sincerely;
Dave Robertson

2-door wagons and a trivia question (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 16:49:52 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Marty Merritt)

Someone was wondering if there was a two-door Ford wagon in the late
sixties and early seventies. Tad Burness shows only four-doors for the
Ford (LTD), Falcon, Fairlane, and Torino lines during that period in his
*American Car Spotter's Guide 1966-1980*. The "Country Squire" or "Squire"
was the woodgrain model, other, plainer models were the "Ranch Wagon" or
"Country Sedan." I also looked at the Ranchero entries to see if there was
a panel delivery model, but saw no mention of one.

Here's the trivia question for all you Fordnatics:

What do the Mercury Villager, Ford Ranger, AMC Pacer, and Chevrolet
Citation have in common? Hint: The Ford Corsair (a European model)
belongs in this group, too.

Marty Merritt
Facilities Coordinator, The Shepherd School of Music
Rice University
Houston, Texas
(email redacted)
___________________________________________________________________

* Never trust the obvious.

* Always sleep and eat whenever you get the chance; you never know
when your next chance may be.
___________________________________________________________________

Turbo/Engine for GT40 replica (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 19:42:56 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Clive Doubell)

Hi again

I,m posting this one for me.

For the past n years I have been in the process of building up a Ford GT40
replica - with some luck it could be finished this year. Originally I
earmarked a 351C4V for the car, even up to the point where it was actually
fitted, coupled to an Audi (rearmounted) manual 5 sp box. However when my
3.0 l Ford Courier PU (probably similar to Mazda PU in the USA) blew its
box, I shoved the 351 in. This leaves the GT40 engineless. I would like to
hear some opinions/advice/suggestions/thoughts on the following:

1) I would like to make this car quite fast, so a turbocharger (even dual)
is not out of the question. Supercharging won't work as currently the front
of the 351C goes about 3" into the drivers cabinet (no space for pulleys).
In SA there is not much information available on the subject of
turbocharging Ford V8's. Is there a supplier in the states that sells turbo
kits for old V8's, including pistons, carbs, headers, wastegates ect.

2) Is the 351C a good choice for this, what about a 427/428/429/460 (bigger
is better). Are these motors (and parts) readily available in the USA. If so
how and where can I get one and how much will it cost approximately.

3) The current g/box probably won't last long with a bigger and/or turbo
engine. What would work (remember engine is rear/mid mounted)? Hewland? ZF?.
Where in the States could I find (buy) one, perhaps reconditiond/rebuilt to
save costs. What clutch would work?

Thanks a lot

Clive

AOD Calibration (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 10:50:09 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: KEN CANIGLIA 703-604-3900x5938 <(email redacted)>

I'm getting ready to re-calibrate the AOD in my 93' 5.0 GT. I am using info
from a previous re-calibration and some new information. The area I'ld like
some comments on have to do with partial power shifting and 2- 1 downshifting.
I plan on making the following changes:

Part-Throttle:
2-3 shift valve - stiffer inner spring plus extend outer spring 1/4 inch
1-2 shift valve - extend spring 1/8 -1/4 inch
3-4 shift valve - extend outer spring 1/4 inch

Downshift:
2-1scheduling valve - shorten inner spring 1/8 inch, to reduce speed at which
downshift takes place when coming to a stop, currently 20 mph.

If you have any comments or experiences, please send direct.

Ken Caniglia
(email redacted)@INTERNET
65' Mustang Fastback
93' Mustang GT

289 HiPo Pinging (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 11:07:31 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: KEN CANIGLIA 703-604-3900x5938 <(email redacted)>

Doug,

You need to know more about how your distributor is set up. 10 degrees of
static timing is not really all that much. Check your total timing, no vacuum.
It should be no more then around 38 degrees maximum (around 2500 rpm). If its
higher than that then check the mechnical advance in the distributor and back
it off accordingly to allow the 10 or so degrees of initial advance. Also,
check your vacuum advance to see how its operation. I'm running a 289 with
10-1 compression and 12 degrees of initial plus 26 degrees of mechanical
timing. No problems with pinging.

0-100-0 (WasCapri Info Revisited) (fwd) (5 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 23:16:47 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Brian St. Denis" <(email redacted)>

> Hell, I
> bet and indy car or F1 car could do 0-100-0 in 10 seconds or less.

Well, since there are Ford powered Indy cars... this response might
be appropriate.

I was watching a F1 race (are there any Ford F1s???) and the announcers
were talking about the start. F1 does standing starts and they mentioned
that these cars do 0-100+ in 3 seconds. If that is true, they could
easily beat 0-100-0 in 10 seconds. Try 5 or 6 (once fully warmed up).

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian St. Denis | We need to put a ban on fertilizer.
Network Administrator | TI e-mail: (email redacted)
Paranet, Inc. | Paranet e-mail: (email redacted)
On loan to Texas Instruments | MSG ID: DENT phone: (214) 997-5270

Ford "Suburban" (6 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 19:28:20 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Hugh Jackson)

Has anyone heard of Ford's plans for their "Suburban"? While we were in
Dearborn last summer at the 40th anniversary convention of the T-Bird, we
toured the Ford design center, and I asked about it then. I was told that
Ford was working on one, and it would be a 97 model. No names were
mentioned. Since then, one of my local dealers has said that Ford has
backed off the production. I saw in Motor Trend shortly after our trip about
the Dodge Adventurer, and in that article, they mentioned the Ford unit.
Since my wife drives one of the bow tie units, and I don't like it, I'm
anxious for Ford to come through for me. Appreciate any info.

Hugh in Houston
aka BirdMan

Radiator deposits (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 15:08:31 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Gaetan Corneau)

My car's radiator is full of white, hard deposits and I begin to have
cooling problems. I tried radiator cleaning stuff: it cleaned very well (the
water was dark), except that the deposits stayed. Anyone knows how to get
rid of that? I thought about using CLR (you know, the stuff advertized on
TV, that is used to clean bath tubs) if all else fails...

By the way: could anyone tell me the weight of a Mustang GT?

Thanks!
Gaetan Corneau
Quebec, Canada

Mustang prop vibration (2 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 19:48:56 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Clive Doubell)

Hi fordnatics

I'm posting this for my brother Brian, who is also a fordnatic, but alas
does not currently have access to internet.

He has a 1967 Mustang Coupe, converted the 289 to 302 Windsor, chucked out
the auto box and shoved in 5 spd manual (Alfa Berlina box from ex race car),
and put in a solid prop shaft. The problem is as such: - At 70 mph a loud
vibration starts (seems to come from prop) and stops at about 85 mph. The
diff and g/box is in good nick and the prop is balanced. As he found that it
is quite difficult to look under the car when going 70 - 80 mph :-\ this is
proving to be a difficult one to solve.

Any ideas and possible solutions would be appreciated.

Clive

0-100-0 (WasCapri Info Revisited) (2 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 17:44:34 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Barry Wayne Freese <(email redacted)>

On Wed, 24 May 1995, Eugene Y C Chu wrote:
> Roland Zuk wrote:
>
> >The result: The Sierra XR4x4 2.8i and XR4x4 2.9i that ran from '85
> >through '89, the Granada/Scorpio 4x4's during the same period. And
> >finally (get ready to dump your 5.0), the Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth 4x4.
> >16 valve, turbocharged, twin cam. In showroom trim, 220 HP @ 6250 and
> >220 ft-lb @ 2500 rpm. Yes, 2500.
>
> Were these the same loons who built the Sierra RS200 (Evolution)?
> Let's see some of the specs: DOHC 16 valve 2.0l turbocharged 750 hp
> engine, 4WD platform, 0-6 in 2.1 sec, 0-80 in 3.1 sec (first gear),
> and, because it can brake harder than it can accelerate, 0-100-0 in 10
> sec. Where do I get one?

0-100-0? Thats Cobra territory, isn't it? I thought part of the Cobra
legend was that it was on a VERY short list of production cars which
could do 0-100-0 in 10 seconds or less. I hadn't heard about the Sierra
RS200 (Evolution). What's the deal?

B. W. Freese

Voice: 314 822-7637
Internet: (email redacted)

'68 Mustang GT Fastback
'88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

request subscription (no replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 07:51:51 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "n.mulvana" <(email redacted)>

request digest subscription

Foam in my radiator (2 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 08:16:38 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

I recently put some stuff in my radiator to try and seal a leak. Car-Go I
think it was called. It seems to have worked, cuz the radiator isn't leaking
anymore. I had just flushed the cooling system and had taken out the
thermostat, so I'm running without one. I plan to get one in the next few
days. Here's the weird thing....It's still overflowing, through the overflow
pipe and the radiator cap,.....but it's foam!!
When I open the radiator cap and look inside, there's a layer of foam on top.
It's also foam that leaks out.

What's goin' on ?
Kojo

Timing vs Fuel Economy (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 20:38:38 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (George Chang)

Hi Everyone,

I have another naive question for the Fordnatics... How can
I tweak my timing for maximum gas mileage? I'll be taking my
'84 Crown Victoria copcar (351W, 2 VV carb, AOD, 2.7X rear end) to
Southern California when I attend my son's graduation.

It will probably be my last long drive for some time, and
I'd like to see just what kind of mileage I can get (I'm not going
to break any speed or acceleration records, so I thought I'd go for
mileage).
So far I've installed vacuum gauges on the manifold and
venturi, and I find that driving style affects both readings
considerably. By keeping the manifold vacuum as high as possible, I
was able to average 24.7 mpg on a 200-mile trip at about 60 mph.
But now I wonder if tweaking the timing would help a bit.

What do you think? I notice that the vacuum advance can put
20 or 30 degrees of advance onto the ignition.... should I adjust
the vacuum advance diaphragm spring rather that the base timing?

Thanks!
George

KNocking, Rattling and Power Loss!! Oh MY!!! (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 19:27:39 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

1973 F-250 360

I need help again. Now I'm hearing all these knocks and some sounds that
seem like clattering. Mostly when I go up any type of grade or try to
accelerate. I'm currently running without a Thermostat, but I plan to get
one tommorow. I'm still overheating too. What to do?

Kojo

Gauge sender ???? (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 18:25:16 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Freeway Flyer <(email redacted)>

I have put VDO gauges in the beast, but I need to buy the senders for the
water temp and oil pressure. Does anyone know what size sender too buy
for these? I guess I need the NPT size, or whatever.

Thanks in advance...

______________________________________________________________
Ken Neher Emory University (but not for long!!!!!!!!!!)
BLUEBEAST- 1983 5.0 Litre Crown Victoria Police Package
"I am an English Major- I don't know anything."- Michael Caine

Capri Info Revisited (3 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 12:03:38 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Roland Zuk <(email redacted)>

On Wed, 24 May 1995, Anderson, Thomas L (Tommy) wrote:

> has been established for Fords sold in the U.K. Among them will
> be the last Capri ever produced. It was an experimental Furgeson
> 4-wheel drive prototype. That combination (if it had a turbo) would
> be about the only car that could pry my stiff, white-knuckle hands off
> of my 5.0 Mustang !! So much for vaporware... Fords Forever...!

Vaporware??? With a hellbent "beat Audi" attitude, Bob Lutz, then
chairman of Ford Europe; and under the direction of Rod Mansfield who
formed the fabulous Dunton Special Vehicle Engineering team, kept the
Ferguson Engineering projects moving full speed.

The result: The Sierra XR4x4 2.8i and XR4x4 2.9i that ran from '85
through '89, the Granada/Scorpio 4x4's during the same period. And
finally (get ready to dump your 5.0), the Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth 4x4.

16 valve, turbocharged, twin cam. In showroom trim, 220 HP @ 6250 and
220 ft-lb @ 2500 rpm. Yes, 2500.

With minor upgrades using factory RS parts (their Motorsport div), Group
A trim produced easily produced 295 HP @ 6250 and 270 ft-lb @ 4500.
Aftermarket goodies could take this beast even much higher.

Regards
Roland

How to analyze pinging? (1 reply)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 11:48:34 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Doug Bailey)

I have driven about 100 miles in the Cobra so far. It's doing great
except that the motor pings like crazy. I originally thought that the
noise was just blow-by from a poorly seated exhaust joint (it's tough
to tell when the wind is howling in your ears), but now I'm sure that
it's pinging.

The motor is a 289 HIPO with 10:1 compression, Edelbrock manifold and
Holley. It's timed to 10 degrees BTDC, which is both what's in the
Mustang book for that motor and what was painted on the torsion damper
by the rebuilder. I'm running 92 gas.

I guess that I can stop the pinging by retarding the ignition timing,
but is this really the best way to go? Where should the vacuum advance
be connected. At the moment, I have it connected to some tap coming
out of the center/top of the carb body, there are other taps though.

Regards

Doug

Can't follow rules (LONG) (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 15:31:10 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

Dean, I'm sorry you see all of us as idiots, and I mean you no ill will by
this response, but you shoud consider my responses here.

First regarding:

> > From: chucko
> > To: fordnatics; internet
> > Subject: ...cant follow rules
> > Date: Tuesday, May 23, 1995 8:27AM
>
> > >Subject: ADMIN: *Don't* send unsubscribe messages to the list!!
>
> > >For the N+1th time: DO NOT send "unsubscribe" requests to the list
> > >posting address! They will be ignored by the list admin (me) and will
> > >only piss off all readers of the list.

YOU WRITE:

>>>I assume that this was from Chuck<<<

Come on Dean - if you have a computer and you are using e-mail, you shouldn't
have to assume who it's from. Surely you know how to wade through headers
and determine who originally sent a post.

If you don't know that chucko is Chuck Fry (sp?) - administrator of the list,
then you really haven't been doing much on the list. It is not Chuck's
responsibility to babysit everyone here. This list isn't a _right_. It's a
_priveledge_. And much like any other priveledges, it comes with some
responsibility. It is your responsiblity to learn the rules of the road - so
to speak, and follow them.

You also write:

>>Maybe they ARE having a problem. Maybe, as can happen were I work, someone
inherits a system that the previous owner had subscribed to a mailing
list(s)...how is he to know how to get off of the list????<<

Well, first off, if a member walks away from an address that is on the list
without un-subscribing, he or she isn't very concientious to begin with.
However, in the incredibly unlikely event that I inherited an address that
was subscribed to a Basketweaving (no offense to any basket weavers) list,
and I wanted to un-subscribe, then perhaps I might post a message saying "Hi,
I am sorry to clutter the list, but I have inherited a system that is on this
list, and I am unfamiliar with how to un-subscribe, could someone please help
me." I doubt this would get you flamed. However, simply posting an
unsubscribe to ANY list is irritating and happens a LOT here lately.

Regarding MY reply to:

>> If the rest of the list feels as these guys does, then take me off
>>the list too!<<

That said:

>You'll need to send that to fordnatics-request I believe.

You write:

>>You were the one that thoroughly convinced me. I hope you feel better now.
Real good job! <<

Glad I could be of assistance.

Regarding SOMEONE ELSES post of:

>>The way to get on or off of this list has not changed since its conception.
What is so confusing about that?<<

You write:

>>Smart aleck! The way they have been changing servers, then temporary
servers, but still do this here or you could also do that............I would
have to go back and re-read all the change messages I have saved to determine
what has changed and what hasn't. Gees, the messages we get now come
from "Chucko". Wasn't it "Fordnatics" just a short time ago?<<

What difference does it make what changes have been made. You still post
messages to Fordnatics and subscription changes/cancellations to
Fordnatics-request. What's smart aleck about that?

>>ALSO, I was (am) subscribed to the mustang list. They made a server
change. I decided to take "digest" form. BIG MISTAKE! The digest crashed
my mail. Three times more before I could get mail to run long enough to go
re-read "how-to" e-mail, then trial and error, and finally get cancelled and
back to receiving regular mailings!!!! I was almost to the point of sending
a message to the posting site.<<

That's a shame - the proper way to handle this would have been to post a
polite message to Chucko (even if it actually required you to look up his
address) letting him know of the problem and asking him if he could check it
out when he got a chance.

You act as if Chuck is getting paid to do this or something. Further, you
act as if the list is here to serve you only. You certainly seem to think
that you have no responsiblity for understanding how it works, or what the
list might require of you.

If you inherited it, I have to wonder about your organization's policies that
re-use old e-mail names. If you _subscribed_ to a list that can generate
over 50 messages a day without reading the charter, or thinking that you
might have to actually do some work to manage the incoming messages then you
are, at the very least, being naive.

>>The guy may have actually been a lazy bum and didn't even look for (or have
saved) mailing list instructions, but having been through this crap, I say
give the guy a break and cool out, dude!<<

The problem is that there have been a LOT of people ignoring the proper
method of un-subscribing. Obviously I am wasting bandwidth here, but
hopefully it will lower the wasted bandwidth in the future by raising the
awareness of others when they need to make changes.

-Tom Steele

1989 Motor Trend Super Coupe/XR7 Articles (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 13:32:17 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Barry Wayne Freese <(email redacted)>

I am interested in the 1989 articles in Motor Trend on the Car of the
Year: Thunderbird Super Coupe, and the Cougar XR7.

If anyone has these, I'd appreciate working out something where I could
get a copy. (My local library has a very good service on periodicals,
but for some reason the service missed this year of Motor Trend articles
so I can't get them from the archieves!)

Thanks, in advance! :->

B. W. Freese

Voice: 314 822-7637
Internet: (email redacted)

'68 Mustang GT Fastback
'88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe

fixing wheels (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 09:41:28 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: " Darius Rudis " <(email redacted)>

I had a wheel with the same problem. I took it to:
THE WHEEL SHOPPE
18011 E. 14 MILE
FRASER MI 48026
(810)415-7171

They are basically in metro Detroit. They charged me $40 to straighten my
wheel. Since I live in metro Detroit it was a 45 minute drive. Mailing it
would probably work. They advertise in the 3x3 ads in the back of some of the
magazines.

Regards,
Darius Rudis (email redacted)
FM&SP - Systems
Room 219-B Westpark Center Dearborn (313)85-50209

...cant follow rules (TAKE ME OFF LIST!!!) (1 reply)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 15:49:29 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Knight, Dean E" <(email redacted)>

All,

This is long!

Before I begin.....hey, Chucko, if you read this...TAKE ME OFF
THIS LIST!!!!! (unsubscribe me, that is!). I am serious and will
try to follow with the proper unsubscribe request. (no smiley)

Although I did receive e-mail in support of what I posted, a couple
of others, who know more than anyone else, and are shocked
when the rest of the world is not at their level, have convinced
me that I can not continue as a subscriber to this group.

MORE BELOW
I I I I
v v v v

----------
> From: chucko
> To: 'Fords-Post'
> Subject: RE: ...cant follow rules
> Date: Tuesday, May 23, 1995 10:29AM
>
>
ME> While we are wasting bandwith.............
> ----------
> > From: chucko
> > To: fordnatics; internet
> > Subject: ...cant follow rules
> > Date: Tuesday, May 23, 1995 8:27AM
>
> > >Subject: ADMIN: *Don't* send unsubscribe messages to the list!!
>
> > >For the N+1th time: DO NOT send "unsubscribe" requests to the list
> > >posting address! They will be ignored by the list admin (me) and will
> > >only piss off all readers of the list.

I assume that this was from Chuck. It might behoove you to just
re-send request instructions to people like this directly, instead of
blasting
them openly. Maybe they ARE having a problem. Maybe, as can happen
were I work, someone inherits a system that the previous owner had
subscribed to a mailing list(s)...how is he to know how to get off of the
list????
Especially if the post is "ignored"!

>
> > I am tired of reading *unsuscribe* postings left and right...
> > I have an idea. The next person sending the request should get a
posting
> > from
> > every single one of us who have to read it. Contact the idiot
> > PRIVATELY letting them know how many times we have to read these stupid
> > things.
> > The person unsubscribing should probably receive about 400+ messages
from
> > everyone on this list!
>
> > Regards,
> >
> > Darius Rudis (email redacted)
>
> > FM&SP - Systems
> > Room 219-B Westpark Center Dearborn (313)85-50209
>
>
me> If the rest of the list feels as these guys do, then take me off the
list
me> too!
me> What an attitude. I believe most mailers have a delete and also show
me> the heading so you can choose to read or not to read. Like how much
me> time does it waist. I delete MOST of the postings from this and other
me> mailing lists without reading the post by perusing the headers to see if
me> the topic interests me.
me>
me> BESIDES.....trying to get on and off of some mailing lists requires an
act
me> of congress! The requester might have been doing a last resort after
me> trying to "follow the rules". This mailing list has done a lot of
changes
me> recently. Enough to confuse anybody.
me>
me> Dean

----------------------------[ 1 Non-supporter
]-------------------------------------------------
>Actually Dean, in spite of the changes, I still post to the same
fordnatics.
>address I have been the whole time, and if I were to unsubscr*be, I would
>post to the same fordnatics-request that has been asked of us since I have
>been on the list.

See my response to #3 below..........

>
>All things considered, I don't think the list could have been handled
better,
>or with less inconvience to the list-members than Chuck has done.

When was this even brought up????? I'VE never questioned Chuck's
ability to administer the list.

>
>BTW - regarding:
>
>> If the rest of the list feels as these guys does, then take me off
>>the list too!<<
>
>You'll need to send that to fordnatics-request I believe.

You were the one that thoroughly convinced me. I hope you feel better
now. Real good job!

----------------------------[ Non-supporter 2
]-------------------------------------------------

>Is it really complicated to add "-request" into the address?

Depends on circumstances...have you tried cancelling or changing
your subscription yet?......see below......

----------------------------[ Non-supporter 3
]-------------------------------------------------

| If the rest of the list feels as these guys does, then take me off the
list
> | too!
> | What an attitude.
>
> I am sure that you feel very strongly about this. If so, then if you had
> read the top of the post, subscription cancellations do not go to the
list,
> they go to (email redacted)
>
> I believe most mailers have a delete and also show
> | the heading so you can choose to read or not to read. Like how much
> | time does it waist.
>
> This has nothing to do with looking at headers. I should not have to look
to
> see if a message was supposed to be sent to the list or not. I am
interested
> in every message to the list. And what has this to do with my waistline?
>
> I delete MOST of the postings from this and other
> | mailing lists without reading the post by perusing the headers to see if
> | the topic interests me.
>
> That is you.
>
> | BESIDES.....trying to get on and off of some mailing lists requires an
act
> | of congress! The requester might have been doing a last resort after
> | trying to "follow the rules". This mailing list has done a lot of
changes
> | recently. Enough to confuse anybody.
>
> The way to get on or off of this list has not changed since its
conception.
> What is so confusing about that?
>

MY E-MAIL RESPONSE BACK TO HIM:
Smart aleck! The way they have been changing servers, then temporary
servers, but still do this here or you could also do that............I would
have
to go back and re-read all the change messages I have saved to determine
what has changed and what hasn't. Gees, the messages we get now come
from "Chucko". Wasn't it "Fordnatics" just a short time ago?

ALSO, I was (am) subscribed to the mustang list. They made a server
change. I decided to take "digest" form. BIG MISTAKE! The digest
crashed my mail. Three times more before I could get mail to run long
enough
to go re-read "how-to" e-mail, then trial and error, and finally get
cancelled
and back to receiving regular mailings!!!! I was almost to the point of
sending a message to the posting site.

I may not be quite as smart as you, but I'm not totally illiterate and can
usually
follow directions well. The guy may have actually been a lazy bum and
didn't even look for (or have saved) mailing list instructions, but having
been through this crap, I say give the guy a break and cool out, dude!
There
are a lot better things to get excited about.

----------------------------[ A supporter
]-------------------------------------------------

>You're absolutely correct. I should have thought before typing when I
>responded in agreement to this suggestion.

Maybe it does sometimes rain in the desert. Thanks!
___________________________________________________________

How many flamethrowers out their have tried to cancel or make a change
to this or any other mailing group? I know some of you are near perfect and
know and understand everything to the fullest, but someone else out their
has had to have had a problem or made a mistake with a mailing list request.
At least one. Maybe not as you have probably chased them all off!!!!!

Nevertheless, I out of here (providing I can read the instructions). If you
care
to respond, you'd better e-mail me direct.

It's been real,
Dean

(email redacted)

Capri Info Revisited (Lengthy) (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 09:40:00 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Anderson, Thomas L (Tommy)" <(email redacted)>

Last week someone asked for some specs on the German Ford
Capri (actually Mercury Capri to U.S. buyers). I'm running about a
week behind in everything these days, so I hope it's not too late for
the person who was looking for the information.

According to the March 1976 Car & Driver reprint article that
Mercury dealers were giving out (the Capri "S" was tested) to
prospective buyers (it helped sell me, they also were giving out
reprints of a 1975 Road & Track test which I still have, also)
horsepower was 109bhp @ 4800 RPM, torque was 146ft-lbs @
3000 RPM. Not exactly a powerhouse by today's standards, but
they did alright. It managed to stomp a '75 Buick Skyhawk (Auto.),
a VW Scirroco, and was just barely beat out by a Cosworth V*ga
in the quarter mile by about 2 tenths of a second. Zero to 60 was
given at 10.3 seconds and top speed was put at 113 mph. But they
could be easily tweaked to do more. With mild engine mods (cam,
carb, etc,) I've seen mine on 125 mph before the speedometer
broke... [;). I estimated when it was as it's peak, the quarter mile
time would have been in the high 16's judging from other cars I
knew I could hang with or beat.

The original writer mentioned he was looking for a 2.8 injection
Capri. Sad to say these were never imported into the U.S. , but
they could flex a bit more muscle. According to "Capri Muscle Cars"
(Brooklands Books) quarter mile time was 16.2 seconds and 0 to 60
came up in 7.9 seconds. Horsepower was 160bhp (DIN) @ 5700 rpm
and torque was 162 ft-lbs @ 4200 rpm. In the particular test of Autocar
Magazine June 1981, the 2.8 Injection Capri consistantly beat the
likes of Porche 924, Mazda RX7, Audi Coupe, Lancia Beta HPE 2000,
and Datsun 280ZX 2+2 (which was slowest of the bunch, dog meat !)
in quarter mile times and top speed. Top speed was put at 127 for the
Capri 2.8i. The article says "with gutsy performance for tolerable
economy it has to be the Ford" !!

On that same vein, I saw in Super Ford where a Brittish Museum
has been established for Fords sold in the U.K. Among them will
be the last Capri ever produced. It was an experimental Furgeson
4-wheel drive prototype. That combination (if it had a turbo) would
be about the only car that could pry my stiff, white-knuckle hands off
of my 5.0 Mustang !! So much for vaporware... Fords Forever...!

Tommy Anderson
(email redacted)

1977 Mercury Capri II 2.8
1978 Ford Ranchero GT 351W
1983 Thunderbird 302
1989 Mustang GT 25TH Aniv. Ed.

Tail light lens replace on a '93 hatch (2 replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 17:18:01 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Rimmer, Paul" <(email redacted)>

Thanks for everyone's reply regarding the rear tail light lens replacement.
The lens is the same from '87 on up however the way the tail light assembly
is attached to the car is different between an '87 and a '93.

I picked up a very clean right side assembly off an '87 from a wreckers
yard. It cost me $135 Cdn. This seemed like a lot but the dealer wanted
$142 for just the lens. Also PPI has the whole assembly, brand new, for $89
US. This would have been the way to go if I was in the States.

Anyway, it took 15 mins to remove the assembly with the smashed lens from
my car. This involved removing 5 screws from the panel running around the
interior behind the tail light. One of the screws is hidden beneath the
carpet in the spare tire well area. Then five 11mm nuts are removed which
hold the assembly to the body.

I then compared the 2 assemblies and found that the '93 assembly has screws
at all attachment points while the '87 has screw and threaded (3 male, 2
female) attachment points. I checked the part number of the lenses and
found them to be the same. It was then an easy process to CAREFULLY pry off
the two lenses (use a flat screwdriver with tape around the blade) and put
the good one on the '93 assembly. There are 5 clip retainers on the '87 and
4 on the '93 which can be reused. The butyl seal and clips hold the lens
onto the assembly.

Take the time to really clean the lens if you use one from a wrecker. These
things get dirty and will result in one tail light being dimmer than the
other.

** IMPORTANT ** DO NOT clean the silvered reflective surfaces of the
taillight assemblies with anything other than a slightly damp cloth. I was
lucky to find this out on the old assembly which I cleaned with Windex. The
Windex acted as a solvent and removed the reflective finish with ease.

I then reattached the assembly using silicone sealer around the attachments
to prevent any leakage into the trunk.

The whole process took a half hour and was quite simple.

QUESTION
I now need to get a 2" long, 1/4" wide divot in the corner of the rear
bumper cover fixed. Can this be fixed on the car and does the cover have to
be removed, or can they not be repaired necessitating the replacement of the
cover ?

Thanks for the help everyone.

Paul Rimmer

New Ford Pickup (no replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 10:19:00 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Dan. Jones" <(email redacted)>

Peter,

Thanks for the tip on the shims. Your mention of too-tall-trucks reminded
me that the home of the Bigfoot monster trucks is just down the street
from me. About a month ago I was talking with one of the mechanics there
and he showed me some pictures of the new production F-150. The front
grill and sloping hood are similar to the Triton show truck but the sides
are smoother. The doors on the crew cab are kind of interesting, with one
side opening "suicide" style for easy entry and loading. Underhood is the
4.6 liter modular motor and the front suspension is fully independent
(the twin I-beam swing axles are retained for the heavier duty F-250/F-350
trucks). They already had a composite replica of the new body in the shop
to fit to one of there monster truck frames.

Later,
Dan Jones

Running Hot ! (4 replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 12:19:33 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Bryan Diller <(email redacted)>

I was wondering if anybody had an ideas or solutions on how to keep
the 428 in our dirt track car cool. It usually runs about 220 degrees,
maybe a little higher, we'd like to see it about 200, any ideas would be
appreciated. I do remember a little while back some discussion about
some product that you put in the radiator with the water to help with the
temp, I believe that the thread had something to do with anti-rust agents
for the radiator.

Stroker Cyl Bore Life? (no replies)

mailbot — Tue, 23 May 1995 22:31:00 -0500

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Mail From: (email redacted) (Frank Marrone)

The bottom of the piston sticks out the bore ~.85" at BDC, this is approx
1/3 of the total piston hieght. Approximately .1" of piston pin appears
below the bore skirt. The piston wobbles (alarmingly but probably
appropriatly) at BDC with no rings. The piston to bore clearence is under
.002" cold.

The rod is straight up and down at BDC and the cylinder pressure should be
low. What would the service life limitations of such a beast be? Are there
any close examples (chevy 400?) to make a comparison to?
Frank Marrone at (email redacted)

Power Steering rate (no replies)

mailbot — Tue, 23 May 1995 21:23:59 -0500

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Mail From: Joe Dowding <(email redacted)>

I would like to decrease the power assistance on my 1978 Mustang II.
I have the variable assist rack with the newer style power steering
pump. I would like to decrease the assistance and get rid of that 'old
car' feel. It is overpowered enough that I would consider putting my
manual rack back in, but turning my front tires (215 60 R 14's) while
parking would not be pleasant. I have heard of problems with slowing
down the pump (bigger pulley) but is there a limit you can go to before
the problems occur? I have also heard of modifications you can make to
the rack itself. What are they? Thanks for any help with this.

- Joe Dowding
(email redacted)

Shims (1 reply)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 12:37:06 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Dan Jones <(email redacted)>

Hi All,

Does anyone know a good source for the wedge shaped shims used to adjust
the pinion angle on leaf sprung cars (they lay flush against the spring
perches)? I need to fine tune the driveline phasing on my '66 Mustang.
It's as smooth as silk under hard acceleration, but has some vibration
upon deceleration.
Thanks,
Dan Jones

P.S. Due to severe storms and flooding here in St. Louis, the local computer
network has been down since Tuesday a week ago. All mail sent to my address
during the past week has been lost. If you sent me anything during this
period, please re-send.

leaf spring suggestions (no replies)

mailbot — Tue, 23 May 1995 16:51:36 -0500

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Mail From: Christopher S Whalley <(email redacted)>

I would like to lower the rear end and increase the spring rate of my
63 Ranchero. I do not want to de arch the springs and I would prefer not to
use lowering blocks.
I would appreciate suggestions concerning suppliers and available
spring rates. I would like a fairly stiff rate since this is a lowered
car with no rear anti roll bar that will occasionally be carrying a load.
Assuming 650 lb/in front springs with a ~1 in front AR bar, what
would be a good rear spring rate. I would like fairly neutral cornering
with 215 60's in front and 245 60's in back.
Could someone also tell me the measurements to do a Shelby style
upper A arm relocation.
Do the "wedge" kits require relocating the A arm mounts.
Thanks
Chris Whalley

CFV: Mustang Newsgroup (no replies)

mailbot — Tue, 23 May 1995 16:06:08 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Shel Belinkoff <(email redacted)>

LAST CALL FOR VOTES (of 2)
unmoderated group rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang

Newsgroups line:
rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang Ford Mustangs in all their flavours.

Votes must be received by 23:59:59 UTC, 2 June 1995.

This vote is being conducted by a neutral third party. For voting
questions only contact Michael Handler <(email redacted)>. For
questions about the proposed group contact John Shannon <(email redacted)>.

RATIONALE

Given the popularity of the vehicle and the associated traffic in other
groups, Mustang enthusiasts have expressed the need for a group
dedicated to the Mustang. This would centralize Mustang information,
removing the traffic from the other groups. In addition, a single
Mustang group would allow new Mustang-interested users to easily
identify what group to monitor/post to, to acquire information.
The name rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang is inline with current Usenet
practices.

CHARTER

rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang is intended to be an unmoderated
newsgroup to support discussion amongst Ford Mustang enthusiasts.
Discussion will include, but not be limited to, repairs, modifications,
upgrades, notices, opinions, advice and experiences from individuals
that have an interest in the Ford Mustang automobile in its various
flavours. Advertising, for-sale notices and want-ads are acceptable
as long as they are in-keeping with the Mustang theme.

DISTRIBUTION

This Call For Votes (CFV) has been crossposted to the following newsgroups:
news.announce.newgroups, news.groups, rec.autos.misc, rec.autos.tech
rec.autos.driving, rec.autos.rod-n-custom, rec.autos.sport.tech,
alt.autos.rod-n-custom

HOW TO VOTE

One vote counted per person, no more than one per account. Attempts at
ballot box stuffing or vote fraud will not be treated lightly.

*** IMPORTANT: _Addresses_ and _votes_ of all voters will be published in
the final voting results list. UVV voting on Usenet is not done by secret
ballot. ***

Send email to: <(email redacted)>
Just replying should work if you are not reading this on a mailing list.

Your mail message should contain ONE (and only ONE) of the following
statements:

I vote YES on rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
I vote NO on rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
I vote ABSTAIN on rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang
I CANCEL my vote on rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang

If you vote ABSTAIN, your vote will be registered and will be shown in
the final results posting, but it will not affect the outcome of the vote.
It is intended as a form of symbolic protest, nothing more.

If you CANCEL your vote, all records of your vote will be purged from the
active results file, and your name and address will not be listed in the
final results posting.

ABSTAIN and CANCEL are nearly the same thing -- the only difference is
that with ABSTAIN, your name and address are still listed in the final
listing.

If you later change your mind you may vote again. Only your last valid
vote will count and will be published in the final results posting.

Anything else may be rejected by the automatic vote counting program. The
votetaker will respond to your received ballots with a personal
acknowledgement by mail -- if you do not receive one within several days,
try again. It's your responsibility to make sure your vote is registered
correctly.

After the final results are posted to , there
will then be a five-day period during which the published vote list may be
corrected and any irregularities addressed.

OFFICIAL SOURCES OF THE CFV

The only official sources of this CFV are:
* The copy which was crossposted to
* Any copies which were sent to mailing lists by the votetaker (and *only*
the votetaker)
* One received from the votetaker's automated mailserver

To obtain a copy of the CFV from the votetaker's mailserver:
* Send email to <(email redacted)> with

Subject: send mustang cfv

This is an automated function, so it does not matter what
your message body contains, as long as the Subject: line is exactly as
described above.

IMPORTANT: If you give anyone copies of the CFV, the copies must be whole
and unmodified. Distributing pre-filled in ballots or modified copies of
this CFV is considered voting fraud. If this occurs on a large scale or
causes voting problems or irregularities, the vote may be canceled.

When in doubt, ask the votetaker.

rec.autos.makers.ford.mustang Bounce List - No need to revote
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(email redacted) Ryan J Snodgrass
(email redacted) Vijoy A. Abraham
(email redacted) Bradley Wosmek
- --
Michael Handler <(email redacted)>
Usenet Volunteer Votetakers (UVV) Running UseVote 3.0
Usenet Volunteer Votetakers WWW page:

cooling system problem solved (4 replies)

mailbot — Tue, 23 May 1995 21:40:18 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Brian St. Denis" <(email redacted)>

You may remember that on my 1993 GT the temperature gauge started
reading 1 mark lower than normal one day. What's up with that?
Maybe the thermostat was stuck closed.

I replaced the thermostat and it didn't change the gauge reading.
I replaced the thermostat again with no change. I then tested my
thermostats with a thermometer (thanks Robert King) and they were
working fine.

Hum. Suggestions I got from the list ranged from try more thermostats
to the gauge just going bad.

The other day I replaced my ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor)
with a buddy's (thanks Mike Herrmann) just because it was easy and
his perfectly clean 1992 LX was right there with the hood up. Bingo,
problem fixed.

This also explains the crappy gas mileage I've been getting. Running
in warm up mode all day every day isn't good on the gas bill. It
may also explain the lack of performance I have been thinking I'm getting.

Parts stores don't seem to carry ECTs. The dealership was closed so
I still don't have a new one.

Ever heard of an ECT going bad?

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian St. Denis | We need to put a ban on fertilizer.
Network Administrator | TI e-mail: (email redacted)
Paranet, Inc. | Paranet e-mail: (email redacted)
On loan to Texas Instruments | MSG ID: DENT phone: (214) 997-5270

Smashed rear lamp lens (4 replies)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 11:29:40 -0500

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Mail From: "Rimmer, Paul" <(email redacted)>

The right rear lamp lens on my '93 LX was smashed yesterday. Ford wants
$142 Canadian. Does anyone know if these are the same from '87 on up ? If
so I will try to get one from a wreckers yard.

Wheel problem (1 reply)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 12:31:25 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Robert King)

I've got a problem with a set of Fittipaldi wheels I bought a few weeks
ago used. It turns out that one of the wheels is bent. The plain of the
rim is not parallel to the plane of the hub. When the wheel rotates, the
rim oscillates a bit over 1/8". (Not that the wheel is NOT out of round,
it just wobbles back-and-forth as it rotates.)

What I need to know is if this can be repaired, and if it can, I need
some shop recomendations.

- -- Robert King

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Robert A. King | |
| Systems Software Engineer | "Dulce et decorum est en |
| Kodak Health Imaging Systems | medio coitu mori" |
| (email redacted) | -- Nelson Rockefeller |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| The opinions expressed here ain't even mine, much less my employer's! |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+

suspension bolts (1 reply)

mailbot — Wed, 24 May 1995 10:37:02 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Theodore A. Chen" <(email redacted)>

having recently acquired a set of rear control arms, i've been trying
to find the bolts for putting them in. i could reuse the ones that
are on the car right now, but since the car will be heading to the
track soon, i'd feel more comfortable replacing them. i have tried
several ford dealers and come up with nothing. the parts guy at
fremont ford (an SVO dealer) said they didn't even have a part number
for the bolts. he showed me his computer screen which displayed the
various parts of the rear suspension, and sure enough, there was no
part number for the bolts. he said they just reuse them and that
they've never had any of them break.

he then suggested that i try a hardware store. just to see, i went
to Pep Boys and found the bolts i needed (M12, 1.75 x 110, grade 10.9).
but then i asked myself which ones i would rather have in my car,
the ford grade 8.8 bolts already in there, or the grade 10.9 bolts of
uncertain origin?

i'm concerned about getting counterfeit bolts and losing my rear
suspension at the track, so i'd appreciate any help i can get in
finding some bolts.

do the ford bolts really exist as parts?

-teddy

9" pumpkins (5 replies)

mailbot — Thu, 25 May 1995 15:36:59 -0500

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted) (Doug Bailey)

I'm planning to replace the rear end on my Cobra. It's currently
a little over 3:1 and I would like to replace it with a 4.11:1 Posi
rear end.

Does anyone know whether I can get away with just replacing the
pumpkin or do I have to replace the whole rear axel? My understanding
is that, to replace the pumpkin, all I have to do is open the diff
cover, remove the halfshaft clips and pull the halfshafts out.
I then unbolt the pumpkin, replace with the new-one etc.

Are there any gotchas (Posi doesn't fit in non-posi casing, posi
halfshaft splines are different or shorter etc..)?