Mustangs List FAQ
Author unknown. Published on 2010-11-01
Ford First Library – Frequently Asked Questions Section
The contents of this article are © Copyrighted and published under the following terms:
Copyright © the author and published by permission or under fair use.
Ford First Library – Frequently Asked Questions Section
The contents of this article are © Copyrighted and published under the following terms:
Copyright © the author and published by permission or under fair use.
"Late Model" Mustangs FAQ Table of Contents and Index
Last modified 7/9/98
=========================================================================
Mustangs FAQ Table of Contents
=========================================================================
Part 1 [current revision: 1.3]
1) Quick glossary of terms
2) What manuals and publications are good sources of information?
3) Ford addresses and phone numbers
4) What modifications should I make to my car?
5) What modifications can be made to my car for little or no money?
Part 2 [current revision: 1.1]
1) Door tag info ("How do I know what XXXX my car came with?")
2) What effect will a different axle ratio have on my car?
Part 3 [current revision: 1.2]
1) Information on the factory system
2) Aftermarket stereo installation concerns
3) Some installation examples
Part 4 [current revision: 1.0]
1) Failures/diagnoses
2) Water pump
3) Heater core
=========================================================================
Mustangs FAQ Index
=========================================================================
Subject FAQ Section(s)
------- --------------
2.3L engine................................1
2.8L engine................................1
302 engine.................................1
4.2L engine................................1
5.0L engine................................1
7.5" rear..................................1
8.8" rear..................................1
air filter.................................1
air intake silencer........................1
AIR pump...................................1
amplifier..................................3
antenna....................................3
anti-lock brakes (aftermarket).............1
AOD........................................1
axle-ratio codes...........................2
body type codes............................2
CFI........................................1
Cobra......................................1
computer chips.............................1
cooling system.............................4
dashboard..................................3
door tag...................................2
EEC-IV.....................................1
EFI........................................1
EGR........................................1
engine type codes..........................2
Ford Motor Company.........................1
Ford Motorsport............................1
Fox........................................1
fuel pressure..............................1
glossary...................................1
GT-40......................................1
headers....................................1
heater core................................4
Mach 460 (see "stereo")
MAF........................................1
manuals....................................1
magazines..................................1
modular V8.................................1
mufflers...................................1
multiport fuel injection...................1
noise (electrical).........................3
Panhard rod................................1
pulleys....................................1,3
radio (see "stereo")
SFC (see "subframe connectors")
speed-density..............................1
smog pump (see "AIR pump)
spark plugs................................3
speakers...................................3
SROD.......................................1,2
stereo.....................................3
subframe connectors........................1
suspension (rear)..........................1
SVO........................................1
SVT........................................1
T-5........................................1,2
thermostat.................................1
timing.....................................1
torque arm.................................1
TPS........................................1
TracLink...................................1
Traction-Lok...............................1
transmission...............................1
transmission codes.........................2
underdrive pulleys (see "pulleys)
water pump.................................4
WOT........................................1
FAQ Part 1
MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 1, Version 1.3
Last updated 1/5/95
NOTE: The information in this document is correct to the best of the
author's knowledge. However, due to a change in employers the author will
not be able to update/correct this document in the future. The author
accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury, or other "loss" you
encounter while working on your car.
[This document was put together by Andre Molyneux. The following
individuals were of help putting it together or submitted information that
was pasted right in. In alphabetical order: Peter Boggini, Ken Corpus
Chuck Fry, Gary Gitzen, and Dan Malek.]
Basic information and answers to the questions most often asked by
newcomers to the list.
The FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from the site:
ftp.chucko.com
The FAQ resides in the directory "/fordnatics/mustangs-faq". In addition,
an index is available that gives an idea of what subjects are covered by
each section of the FAQ.
This is the first installment of the FAQ (frequently asked questions) for
the Mustangs mailing list. The FAQ is going to be broken up into multiple
sections as there are far too many subjects to be covered in detail in a
single document. Future sections will cover such subjects as:
- Basic Maintenance
- Troubleshooting common problems
- Suspension modifications
- Brake system modifications
- Engine modifications
- Sound systems
- Alarms
This portion of the FAQ will concentrate on basic information that is most
commonly requested by newcomers to the Mustangs list. As a result, it
lacks the focus that later sections have. As with the Mustangs mailing list
itself, the FAQ contains information concerning Mustangs based on Ford's
"Fox" platform (1979-1994) only. No attempt will be made to include
information on earlier years.
This document is broken up into the following sections:
1) Quick glossary of terms
2) What manuals and publications are good sources of information?
3) Ford addresses and phone numbers
4) What modifications should I make to my car?
5) What modifications can be made to my car for little or no money?
========================================================================
1) Quick glossary of terms
========================================================================
There are lots of terms and acronyms that make "Mustangese" difficult for
the uninitiated. The following list is by no means comprehensive, but will
hopefully be enough to get you going:
2.3L
Ford's 2.3 liter OHC inline 4-cylinder motor. Available for all years
1979-1993. Turbocharged versions of this motor were first introduced in
1979 but were quickly withdrawn due to reliability problems. The turbos
came back in the early Eighties, with the turbocharged and intercooled
version found in the SVO Mustang being the most powerful version used.
2.8L
Ford's 2.8 liter displacement V6 engine. Available 1979-1986?
302
For late-model Mustang purposes, the same thing as the 5.0L (302 cubic-
inches approximately equaling 5.0 liters).
4.2L
Also known as the 255, a de-stroked, de-bored version of the 302 that
has no performance potential whatsoever. However, a 302 will drop right
in its place. Yank the 4.2L and send it to the recycler to be made into
something far more worthwhile, like razor blades. Used in the 1981-82
model years.
5.0L
Ford's 5.0 liter displacement V8 engine. The most popular motor for
late-model Mustangs. Available for 1979-1980 and 1983-1994.
7.5
Refers to the 7.5" rear-end used in earlier 5.0L Mustangs and all 4 and 6
cylinder Mustangs (not sure if this applies to the 1994 and later cars).
8.8
Refers to the 8.8" rear-end used in later 5.0L Mustangs. This unit is
stronger than the 7.5" rear.
AOD
Automatic OverDrive trasmission.
CFI
"Central Fuel Injection", refers to a fuel metering system in which fuel
is injected into the incoming air at a single point, after which the
airflow is split up for individual cylinders (in contrast to multiport
fuel injection). Visually the system bears some resemblance to a
carburetor, but the fuel metering is under electronic control. CFI was
used on '84 and '85 Mustangs with automatic transmissions mated to the
2.8L V6 or 5.0L H.O., and is an EEC-IV controlled system.
Cobra
In the late model Mustang world, refers to the highest-performance version
of the Mustang available from the factory in 1993-95. Cobra Mustangs have
engine, braking, and suspension differences from other Mustangs. "Cobra"
is also used to refer to the version of the intake manifold used on the
1993 Mustang Cobra, also known as the GT-41. Originally referred to
Carroll Shelby's Ford-powered race cars of the 1960's.
EEC-IV
Ford's "Electronic Engine Control" computer, version number four. Used on
all 5.0 EFI equipped Mustangs from 1986 to 1994. Some earlier CFI cars
may have used the previous version (EEC-III). Most Ford vehicles are now
switching over to the EEC-V.
EFI
"Electronic Fuel Injection", typically used to refer to multiport fuel
injected cars.
EGR
"Exhaust Gas Recirculation" Refers to a valve used to pull exhaust gasses
back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions.
Fox
Ford's "Fox" chassis, which has been used for multiple cars including the
1979-1994 Mustangs (other "Fox"-derived cars were the Fairmont, most of
the 1980's Thunderbirds, and the Lincoln Mark VII). A large number of
components can be swapped between the various "Fox" cars, leading to
interesting modifications on a budget.
GT-40
In the late model Mustang world, refers to a version of the 5.0L V8 with
higher-performance components than other 5.0's. Originally referred to
Ford's Production GT racing cars from the late 1960's.
MAF
"Mass Air Flow" Refers to a system in which the actual airflow into the
engine is measured, as opposed to a speed-density system. This term is
often used both to describe the entire system or the MAF sensor which
actually does the measuring. All 1989+ 5.0 Mustangs, as well as 1988
Mustangs destined for California, use a MAF system.
Modular V8
New family of overhead-cam Ford V8 engines. The Mustang has long been
rumoured to be a recipient of this engine, as the 5.0L engine will not be
able to meet stricter emissions requirements in the future. This engine
is currently available at a 4.6 liter displacement in single-overhead cam
(approx. 210 hp) and double-overhead cam (approx. 280 hp), as compared to
the 5.0L's 205 hp. However, the modular motor produces less torque than
the 5.0L and the powerband is shifted further up the RPM range. The
modular V8 is a very complex motor that will require more sophisticated
hot-rodding techniques. It's also quite expensive. These factors will
probably mean that the modular V8 will not become the panacea for Mustang
performance. Expect one of the versions of the modular V8 to appear in
the Mustang in the 1996 model year (or possibly late in 1995).
Multiport Fuel Injection
A fuel metering system in which each cylinder has a separate injector.
Panhard Rod
A device used to control lateral movement of the axle. A Panhard rod is
connected to the chassis on one side of the car and to the axle at the
other end. Both ends require pivots to allow movement of the axle. A
Panhard is used in conjunction with a torque arm or other radical rear
suspension modification, and is not considered to be an effective
modification if added to an otherwise stock rear suspension. Panhard
rods have been in use on many different vehicles for many years.
SN95
Ford designation for the fourth generation Mustang platform, introduced in
the 1994 model year. While it visually bears no resemblance to the
previous generation Mustang, it is still based on a version of Ford's Fox
platform, and shares most of its drivetrain and suspension design with
the 1979-93 cars.
Speed-Density
System in which the amount of air entering the engine is estimated based
on several other inputs (such as manifold pressure). The estimate is
based on assumptions about the engine in use, so engine mods are more
likely to confuse a speed-density system than a MAF system. 1986-1988
5.0L Mustangs used speed-density systems (except 1988 cars destined for
California, which used MAF).
SROD
Ford's 4speed (three speed overdrive) transmission used in the 1979 and
1982 to early 1983 5.0 mustangs. SROD stands for Single Rail Over Drive.
Subframe Connectors
Devices used to connect the front and rear subframes of a Mustang
together. The Mustang relies on the floor pan to connect the front and
rear subframes, which results in a lot of flexing, making it difficult for
the suspension to work correctly. Subframe connectors install underneath
the car (although there is one vendor with internal stiffeners that do
much the same thing) and connect the front and rear frame rails directly.
Subframe connectors should be welded in, as bolted on ones will eventually
enlarge the bolt holes and become loose. Many different vendors provide
subframe connectors, with the favorite among list members being from
Global West.
SVO
Refers either to Ford's Special Vehicle Operations group or to the SVO
Mustang, a 1984-1986 version of the Mustang that was the brainchild of
this group. In contrast to the V8 Mustangs, the SVO used a turbocharged
and intercooled 2.3 liter 4-cylinder engine. Aside from the 1993 Mustang
Cobra, it was the only 1979-1993 Mustang to come from the factory with
4-wheel disc brakes.
SVT
Ford's "Special Vehicle Team". Responsible for the Mustang Cobra and
"Lightning" pickup truck.
T-5
Borg-Warner T5 5-speed manual transmission. Used on Mustangs from 1983?-
1994.
Torque Arm
A rear-suspension modification that yields a significant improvement in
handling. Installation of a torque-arm requires the removal of the rear
upper control arms and the installation of a Panhard rod to control
lateral movement of the axle. This set-up significantly reduces bind in
the rear suspension, allowing much more power to be applied when exiting a
corner than the stock setup. Installation of a torque arm and Panhard is
a major (and expensive) undertaking.
TPS
Throttle Position Sensor. A potentiometer used to inform the EEC-IV how
far the throttle is open.
TracLink
A rear suspension upgrade that supplements the existing rear control arms,
but doesn't replace any of them. It improves handling by eliminating the
axle's tendancy to rotate in the opposite direction of the wheels when
torque is applied. This prevents some of the tendency for bind in the rear
suspension, but doesn't do as well as other more radical modifications.
Some racers have found that the TracLink will break under hard use.
Global West makes the TracLink, but other manufacturers may have similar
designs.
Traction-Lok
Refers to the limited-slip type differential used in performance Mustangs.
The purpose of the differential is to allow the rear wheels to turn at
different speeds when going around a corner. A Traction-Lok diff will
limit the allowable difference in speeds between the two wheels, while a
normal (or "open") differential has no such limits (if one tire has
completely lost traction, it will spin merrily while the tire on the other
side sits still). The Traction-Lok is often referred to as the "Traction-
Slop" as the factory spec allows it to lose much of its effectiveness
through wear and yet still be "in spec".
WOT
Short for "Wide open Throttle." What happens when you floor the long
pedal on the right.
========================================================================
2) What manuals and publications are good sources of information?
========================================================================
The FAQ documents are in no way intended to serve as a replacement for
repair manuals. Manuals give step-by-step instructions that are a "must
have" for anyone who works on their own car. On the Mustangs mailing list,
requests for information that is present in any of the major manuals will
usually get a response of RTFM ("read the *$%@ing manual" for those not
familiar with the term). The following will give you an idea of what the
FM's are. Anyone who can afford to insure a 5.0L Mustang has got to be
able to afford some (or all) of the relevant manuals.
- Factory Repair Manuals
The Ford factory manuals are published by:
Helm Incorporated
P.O. Box 07150
Detroit, MI 48207
(800) 782-4356
Helm accepts Visa and Mastercard orders. The factory manuals are broken
down into various sets, such as basic servicing manual, emissions, wiring
diagrams, etc. Most of the manuals are specific for one particular model
and year, but others (like emissions) span all vehicles for a particular
year. Call Helm to determine exactly which manuals apply to your year of
car.
Note: Be prepared for sticker-shock when you call. The full set of
factory manuals will probably run in the vicinity of $200 (however, the
most used manual - the servicing manual - is typically under $60). Still,
the factory manuals are almost a necessity if you do much wrenching on your
own car. They are typically much more complete than any of the aftermarket
manuals, although they do have their own share of mistakes and omissions.
- Third-party repair manuals
Haynes, Chiltons, Clymers, and others make a wide variety of repair manuals
for all types of motor vehicles. Haynes gets the nod as the best of this
crop. Manuals typically span a wide variety of years, and may include
wiring diagrams. However, omissions and mistakes due to the large number
of years covered make even the best of them problematic. If you absolutely,
positively can't afford the factory repair manual, you _have_ to get one of
these. Attacking almost any problem without the factory manual or a good
aftermarket substitute is an exercise in futility.
- Other references
"How to Understand, Service, and Modify Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic
Engine Control" by Charles O. Probst, published by Robert Bentley of
Cambridge, MA, ISBN 0-8376-0301-3. List price is $29.95. Available direct
from the publisher at (800) 423-4595, through Ford Motorsport dealers and
some enlightened Mustang shops (including list member Ken Corpus, who sells
them at a discount to list members - contact Ken_Corpus.Wbst139@xerox.com),
or as a last resort, from Classic Motorbooks, (800) 826-6600, order # 119509.
This manual takes a lot of the mystery out of Ford's engine control computer.
A "must have" for anyone wanting to hot-rod a Ford EFI engine, or who just
wants to know how the hell it works.
Ford Motorsport SVO Performance Equipment Catalog:
This catalog consists of special, high-performance or competition parts or
accessories for various Ford vehicles, including the 5.0L Mustang. There
are over 850 parts listed in the 1994 catalog, 40% of which are street legal.
The catalog also contains parts specifications, parts interchangeability and
compatibility information, hints about installation, and more. SVO also
provides a technical assistance "hot line" that provides reliable, up-to-date
information about the equipment they sell.
- Magazines
I hesitate to recommend any of the Ford or Mustang rags. Every now and
then you'll find a well-researched and relatively unbiased article, but
they're rare. Remember that the magazines live by selling advertising
space, and debunking a manufacturer's claims could lead to a major loss of
revenue. Take the articles (and especially the ads) with a large grain
of salt, say about the size of a salt-lick. If you could believe what you
see on those glossy pages, a 300hp EFI street motor could be had for $250
and a couple of easy hours under the hood. It just ain't that easy (or
cheap).
========================================================================
3) Ford addresses and phone numbers
========================================================================
- Important FoMoCo phone numbers
Ford Motor Company
Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 43360
Detroit, MI 48243
1-800-392-FORD
*Hearing Impaired Customers with TDD access call 1-800-232-5952
Tech. Service Bulletin hotline (is this still active?)
(800) 241-FORD
Ford Motorsport Performance Equipment
44020 N. Groesbeck Highway
Mt. Clemens, MI 48083-1115
Technical Assistance Hotline (313) 337-1356
Ford Motorcraft: 1-800-521-5181
Ford Audio & Cellular Systems: 1-800-FORD-333
Ford Online: >>> 70007.1356@Compuserve.com <<<
This is a fairly new service, which puts the Ford Customer Assistance
Center online with your computer thru the internet with CompuServe. You
can send them just about any request for information, new car brocheres or
even complaints, and someone will typically respond to you within a day or
so . Send them a note to the address listed above.
========================================================================
4) What modifications should I make to my Mustang?
========================================================================
This question comes up fairly often, but it's impossible to answer without
some idea of how you plan to use the car. Are you looking to improve
straight-line acceleration? Make it corner better? Are you going to
drive the car only on the street or will you take it to the track? Are you
going to drag race it, road race it, or just go cruise on Saturday nights?
Are you the only person driving it, or will your SO disown you if the car
no longer rides and drives like the average street car?
Almost any change you can make to the car involves tradeoffs. Lowering the
car can improve handling, but you need to select the right springs and
shocks to keep from bottoming on the bump stops all the time, and you'll
tend to scrape the ground a bit. Changes to improve weight-transfer and
grip for drag-strip launches are detrimental to the car's ability to
corner. Adding a blower requires careful attention to fuel pressure, and
can cause your head gaskets (and other parts) to suddenly decide to get up
and move. Slapping in a radical camshaft may improve top-end horsepower at
the expense of low-end torque, requiring you to rev the engine to keep from
stalling when pulling away from a stoplight.
Before you get visions of expensive toys in your head, sit down and decide
just what it is you want out of your Mustang. Decide just how far you're
willing to change it from it's stock condition. Have a goal in mind, even
if your goal's just to bolt on some expensive items to impress your
friends. Once you've got that goal defined, then you can start finding out
how to reach that point. The Mustangs list is a great source of info, but
you need to know what you're looking for. Making a request for specific
information will get you far better responses than vague ramblings.
========================================================================
5) What modifications can be made to my Mustang for little or no money?
========================================================================
"Hot tips" of ways to improve performance for little or no money crop up
continuously. Unfortunately, most of these "tips" are based on erroneous
assumptions, usually with regards to the EEC-IV. This section will focus
on the most commonly suggested free/cheap mods, giving an idea of what they
hope to accomplish and whether the collective wisdom of those on the
mailing list lends them support or feels they do nothing (or actually hurt
performance). Most of these mods are with regards to 5.0L Mustangs only,
and most concern EFI-equipped engines.
"Cheap" is arbitrarily defined here as $200 or less. Most of the following
items cost significantly less (or are free), but a few approach the $200
mark. In no particular order:
- Advance the base timing
The factory timing spec (10 degrees before top dead center) allows the
engine to run on "regular unleaded" 87 octane fuel. If you're running a
higher octane fuel (premium unleaded is typically 92 octane), advancing the
timing will probably result in a few more horsepower. The maximum base
advance typically possible on the 5.0L engines before ignition knock sets
in is 12 or 13 degrees BTDC.
VERDICT - Makes sense, but don't expect huge gains.
- Change (or remove) the factory thermostat
This is based on the fact that cooler air is denser, so the less you heat
the air coming into the engine, the more air/fuel mixture you can pack into
each cylinder. An old shade-tree mechanic fix, but it's got several strikes
against it. First, you never want to remove the thermostat completely.
The cooling system has been designed with the thermostat restriction in
mind, and removing it will actually _hurt_ cooling. Second, cylinder wall
wear increases as operating temperatures are lowered. The stock Mustang
thermostat is set for 196 degrees Fahrenheit. Dropping to 180 will increase
wear somewhat, and dropping to 160 or 140 will increase wear dramatically.
On EFI cars, cooler thermostats are rumoured to increase performance
because the engine will run richer at temperatures below 180 degrees
Fahrenheit. True, the EEC-IV will richen the mixture, but staying in "warm
up" mode entails more than just a richer mixture. The EEC-IV will be more
conservative with the timing curves, and will never get into "closed loop"
operation (where it uses the oxygen sensors to fine-tune the mixture). The
result will likely be poorer drivability and _decreased_ performance.
Also, catalytic converters can be damaged over time by an engine that's
continually running rich.
VERDICT - Don't remove the thermostat entirely, and don't use a thermostat
below 180 degrees Fahrenheit on an EFI car.
- Underdrive Pulleys
The idea here is to reduce the parasitic loads on the engine, freeing up
more power to go to the rear wheels. Underdriving the accessories will
reduce the loads, but not as much as the manufacturer's ads would have you
believe. The accessory loading isn't linear, so reducing an accessory's
RPMs by a third won't reduce the needed power by a third. In addition, if
the alternator is underdriven, it may not provide enough power to keep all
the electrical loads happy at lower RPMs (especially if you have a mega-watt
stereo), and underdriving the power steering pump may result in increased
steering effort when idling through the parking lot.
There is another reason to underdrive accessories. The accessories were
designed to operate at a particular RPM for most of their lives, and can
fail or cause problems if run at higher RPMs for long periods of time.
This becomes a problem for cars that run on the track. Installing
underdrive pulleys in these situations can put the accessories back at
their normal operating speeds and increase their useful life.
VERDICT - You may pick up a couple of horsepower, but be careful or you may
end up with a dead battery. If you run on the track, your power steering
pump will thank you.
- Mufflers
Eliminating bottlenecks anywhere in the intake or exhaust systems is almost
always a help. However, the mufflers are part of a larger system and can
only do so much by themselves. The factory headers, catalysts, and pipes
put a limit on how much can be gained by replacing the mufflers.
Aftermarket mufflers result in very modest gains on an otherwise stock
system, but become a necessity as flow in the rest of the system is
improved.
VERDICT - Good as part of an overall exhaust system improvement, otherwise
buy them for the sound, not the performance gain.
- Disconnecting the EGR valve
Pumping partially-burned exhaust gasses back into the intake has gotta be a
brain-dead idea, no? No. The EGR valve only operates at part-throttle
settings, and uses the exhaust gasses to lower combustion temperatures and
reduce the formation of nitrogen oxides, a component of smog. At idle and
WOT, the EGR valve is closed, so performance really isn't compromised.
On the last few years of carb-equipped 5.0 engines, the EGR can appear to
cause a "stumbling" problem that goes away if the valve is disabled. The
real problem appears to be getting the correct mixture and timing. If these
are set correctly, the "stumbling" problem is significantly reduced (or
eliminated) without disabling the EGR.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Remove EGR coolant lines (EFI engines only)
The coolant circulated to the EGR spacer is there to take heat _away_ from
the spacer, not heat it up. The exhaust tube to the EGR is carrying gasses
significantly hotter than the coolant, so eliminating the coolant flow will
only make things hotter.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Air Filter
K&N sells a reusable air filter element that just requires periodic
cleaning and re-oiling. Whether or not the K&N is better than a clean
paper filter is debatable. However, if you clean it more often than you
would replace a paper filter, on average it will present less of an
obstruction. The instructions give some insane cleaning interval (like
50,000 miles or so), but I clean mine at least every other oil change.
VERDICT - Use it, but clean it regularly
- Air Intake Silencer (EFI engines only)
The air intake silencer is located next to the air filter housing, on the
opposite side of the sheetmetal (inside the fender). It's a big plastic
doohickey with more than a passing resemblance to a Jarvik artificial heart.
It's sole purpose in life is to quiet down the air as it's sucked into the
engine. The silencer presents a bit of an obstruction to air flow, so
removing it will put you one step closer to a better intake path.
VERDICT - Yank that puppy. Why should you only hear the exhaust?
- Bypass the AIR pump with a shorter belt
The AIR (air induced reaction) pump, commonly known as the smog pump, pumps
fresh air into the exhaust system to help the catalysts burn any remaining
unburned hydrocarbons. Installing a shorter belt to bypass the AIR pump
doesn't make much sense because at WOT the pump's output is just dumped
back into the atmosphere rather than into the exhaust system. When the
output is dumped the pump requires very little power to run, so the
performance gain is essentially non-existent. Also, don't expect to bypass
the pump and then put the original belt back on right before smog-check
time. AIR pumps tend to seize after a while when they're not being driven,
so all you'll do is end up having to shell out money for a new one anyway.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Crank up the fuel pressure (EFI engines only)
Increasing the fuel pressure on an otherwise stock engine (by by going to
an aftermarket regulator) is a bad idea. Within limits, the EEC-IV will
compensate for the excess fuel by reducing the injector duty cycle. Beyond
this, it will give up and resort to "limp home" mode, in which your engine
will run like dog meat. Modified engines sometimes require additional fuel
pressure to keep up with the higher airflow, but on a stock engine you're
wasting your time.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator (EFI only)
This modification has exactly the opposite of the desired effect: It
increases the effective idle fuel pressure without raising the fuel
pressure at WOT. At best, the EEC-IV will eventually compensate for
this blunder under closed-loop operation, but will never notice it at
WOT. At worst, the EEC will adjust the mixture at *all* vacuum levels
to correspond with the observed fuel delivery during part-throttle,
high-vacuum operation, resulting in a leanout at WOT.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Performance chips (EFI engines only)
(~$200 for Hypertech or Superchips)
Unlike some other manufacturers, Ford hasn't been too open with information
about their engine control computer, and designed it such that ROM-swapping
isn't feasible. As a result, and aftermarket engine "chips" must either
intercept the signals to/from the computer or plug into the EEC-IV's
diagnostic port.
Getting more power out of an engine requires moving more air through it or
making more efficient use out of the air and fuel you've got. There are no
emissions requirements that must be met at WOT, so the computer has no
reason to hold back when you push the pedal to the floor. Small gains can
be realized by bumping up the timing a few degrees, but you can do very
much the same thing manually by advancing the base timing (see the first
item on this list). Most of the reputable sources dismiss aftermarket chips
for stock engines (radically modified cars may require mods, however).
A couple of list members received free evaluation chips from a company
called "Superchips". These went on a '92 LX and '94 GT, both of them
stock 5-speeds. On the '92, back-to-back runs were done on the dyno, one
with the chip installed and one without. A small power gain was seen across
the powerband, but several factors (the engine was set at the stock 10
degrees BTDC without the chip, and the engine and dyno were both hotter
during the chipless run) lead to the conclusion that the gain from the chip
was very small indeed compared to what could be gotten simply by advancing
the timing by hand. Back-to-back runs weren't possible for the '94, but
comparing the run to a previous dyno run by the same car months earlier
(and correcting by the differences found on a car that had been run on both
days) indicated a *loss* of power. On both cars the engine analyzer
indicated that the chip had leaned out the mixture at WOT, apparently too
much on the '94.
VERDICT - Of very questionable benefit. Why not spend your money on known
performance improvers instead?
- Aftermarket "Anti-Lock" brakes
(Not sure if this is under $200, but it crops up about every 6 months)
Anti-lock braking systems have become increasingly popular, but they
weren't available on the Mustang until 1994. There is at least one
manufacturer of a mechanical system (as opposed to the electronically-
controlled system used by auto manufacturers) that can be used on the
Mustang. The manufacturer's literature hints that their product is
superior to the electronic systems because the electronic systems only
kick in when a wheel has locked, whereas the mechanical system prevents
lock-up in the first place. This is pretty misleading.
Electronic ABS has sensors that detect the instant a wheel has stopped
rotating. When this happens, brake pressure to that wheel is momentarily
reduced until the wheel starts turning again. The system response is
extremely fast, and the amount of time that the wheel has stopped turning
is extremely small. This sophisticated "closed-loop" system allows the
brakes to work at right about their maximum capacity without locking a
wheel for more than a small fraction of a second.
On the other hand, the mechanical system attempts to prevent sudden
transients in brake system pressure. This means that when you apply sudden
pressure to the brake pedal, the system will damp down rate of pressure
buildup in the system. This is all well and good for "Joe and Mary
Sixpack" who tend to lock up the brakes when the light turns red 200 yards
down the road. It's bad for someone who knows how to use their brakes
correctly, as it will slow down the system's response to your input. Your
right foot says "I want maximum braking now!" which the system interprets
to "Ok, let's increase the brake pressure, but not too quickly, we don't
want to rush this."
If you practice your braking technique, you'll find the point at which
you can brake the hardest without locking up a wheel. You'll discover that
you can stop quicker by yourself than with the mechanical ABS. Experienced
track drivers are divided on the usefulness of electronic ABS, but I doubt
you'll find one in favor of the mechanical version.
VERDICT - Don't do it.
- Install aftermarket headers
The factory headers on '85(?)-up Mustangs are lighter than the cast iron
manifolds they replace. However, that is about their only benefit. The
tubes are crimped and contorted, partly to make room for factory
installation tools, partly because it's cheaper to build them that way.
Several brands of aftermarket replacement headers are available for
$200/pair or less, and all are 50-state smog-legal if installed on the
model year(s) for which they are intended. All are an improvement over
the stock headers in terms of airflow, yielding on the order of 5 to 8
HP and a small improvement in fuel economy.
However, there are a number of choices to make: tubing size (1-1/2" vs
1-5/8), equal vs unequal length, plated vs ceramic-coated vs stainless.
Various magazine tests have shown minimal performance differences on
stock Mustangs, so in many cases the choice comes down to cost and
availability.
Before you install them, inspect the headers carefully for weld quality.
Often the internal seams will be sloppy. A few minutes with a die
grinder will remove these imperfections, maximizing the benefits gained
from the headers. Doing this to the factory headers would help as well,
but if you're going to the trouble you might as well buy the better
afteremarket units.
VERDICT - Makes sense, but don't expect huge gains, and do clean them up
first.
END OF MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 1
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FAQ Part 2
MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 2, Version 1.1 Last updated 8/11/94. NOTE: The information in this document is correct to the best of the author's knowledge. However, due to a change in employers the author will not be able to update/correct this document in the future. The author accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury, or other "loss" you encounter while working on your car. [This door-tag information in this document was written by Andre Molyneux, with additional input from James Delahanty, and Troy Wecker.] This installment of the FAQ covers the following subjects: 1) Door tag info ("How do I know what XXXX my car came with?") 2) What effect will a different axle ratio have on my car? ===================================================================== 1) Door tag info ("How do I know what XXXX my car came with?") ===================================================================== The vehicle door tag can tell you quite a bit about the color and options that your car left the factory with. One of these bits of information answers "What axle ratio does my car have?" which is very near the top of the list of frequently asked questions. This information was distilled from various years of shop manuals and specification books. The original version of this document was based on a 1992 manual, so some bits may apply to '92 Mustangs only. Some information (such as trim codes and paint) change very often, while others probably haven't changed since '79. As a result, the info listed below is not guaranteed to apply to your vehicle, although most of it is probably accurate for the years listed. Buying the factory manuals for your year is the only way to be certain of having the correct information for your car (and even then there may be a few typos). A handy source for all sorts of info on V8 powered 1979-1993 Mustangs is the "1979-93 V8 Mustang Specification Guide", available from: DriveLines P.O. Box 915 Pearblossom, CA 93533-0915 The Vehicle Certification Label is located on the driver's door lock panel (the rear edge of the door) on Mustangs. The label will look something like this (on late '80's-early '90's cars, anyway): +--------------------------------------------------------------+ | MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. IN U.S.A. | | DATE: 06/91 GVWR: 4660LB/2113KG | | FRONT GAWR: 2599LB 1178KG | | REAR GAWR: 2092LB 948KG | | THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR | | VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN | | EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE. +-----+ | VIN:1FABP50U1KG250710 |F0236| | TYPE:PASSENGER |R0163| | +------------------------------------------------------+ | | | | | | | B A R C O D E | | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------+ | | 11 XXXXXX XXXXXX B1 XXXX | | EXTERIOR PAINT COLORS | DSO | | ----------------------------------------------------------- | | BODY | VR | MLDG | INT TRIM | TAPE | R | S | AX | TR | | 54D XX XXX YF XX H X M TJJJJ | | FOEB-58204A10-BB | +--------------------------------------------------------------+ Most of the information of interest is at the bottom of the tag. I'll break down some of them in detail. First, a bit of info about the VIN: 1981-1993 Vehicles have a 17 character VIN. Not sure about 1994 vehicles. 1 F A B P 4 2 E 2 K Z 1 0 0 0 0 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | +-+-+ | | +++ | | | | +----+----+ World Mfg -----+ | | | | | | | +--Production Sequence Number Identifier | | | | | | +---Assembly Plant Restraint System-+ | | | | +-------Model Year Type | | | +---Check Digit Constant "P"----+ | +------Engine Type Line, Series, Body Type-+ 1979-1980 Vehicles have a 11 character VIN X X X X X X X X X X X | | | | | | | Model year---+ | +++ | +----+----+ | | | | Assembly Plant | | +- Order Number | | Body Type----+ +---Engine Type The items of most interest here are probably the "Body Type" and "Engine Type" fields. For Mustangs, the body type codes are: # Year(s) Body Type Body Code -- --------- --------------------------- --------- 02 1979-1980 Base 2-Dr sedan 60F 03 1979 Base 2-Dr sedan hatchback 69F 03 1980 Ghia/Cobra 2-Dr hatchback 61R 04 1979-1980 Ghia 2-Dr sedan 60H 05 1979 Ghia/Cobra 2-Dr hatchback 69R 05 1980 Base 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61H 10 1981 Base 2-Dr sedan 66B 10 1982 L/GL 2-Dr sedan 66B 12 1981 Ghia 2-Dr sedan 66H 12 1982 GLX 2-Dr sedan 66H 13 1981 Base 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61H 13 1982 GL 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61H 15 1981 Ghia/Cobra 2-Dr hatchback 61R 16 1982 GLX/GT 2-Dr hatchback 61B 26 1983 L/GL/GLX 2-Dr sedan 66B 26 1984 L/LX 2-Dr sedan 66B 26 1985-1987 LX 2-Dr sedan 66B 27 1983 GLX/GT 2-Dr sedan convertible 66B 27 1984-1987 LX/GT 2-Dr sedan convertible 66B 28 1983 GL/GT/GLX 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61B 28 1984 L/LX/GT 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61B 28 1985-1987 LX/GT 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61B 40 1988-1991 LX 2-Dr sedan 66B 40 1992-1994 LX 2-Dr sedan LX2 41 1988-1991 LX 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61B 41 1992-1993 LX 2-Dr sedan hatchback LX3 42 1988-1991 GT 2-Dr sedan hatchback 61B 42 1992-1993 GT 2-Dr sedan hatchback GT3 42 1994 GT 2-Dr sedan GT3 44 1988-1991 LX 2-Dr sedan convertible 66B 44 1992-1994 LX 2-Dr sedan convertible LXC 45 1988-1991 GT 2-dr sedan convertible 66B 45 1992-1994 GT 2-dr sedan convertible GTC Engine types are as follows: 3 3.8L CFI/2-Bbl V6 [1986] 4 3.8L SEFI V6 [1984] A 2.3L D 4.2L 2-Bbl V8 [1980-1981] D 5.0L SEFI SHP V8 (Cobra, Super High Performance) [1993-1994] E 5.0L SEFI HO V8 [1988-1993] F 5.0L 2-Bbl V8 [1979] F 5.0L HO 2-Bbl V8 [1982] F 5.0L HO CFI V8 [1984] M 5.0L HO 4-Bbl V8 [1983-1985] M 5.0L HO SEFI V8 [1986-1987] M 2.3L OHC SEFI I-4 [1988-1993] T 2.3L OHC EFI Turbo/Intercooled I-4 [1984-1986] T 5.0L SEFI HO V8 [1994] Now for the codes near the bottom of the tag. The number above the words "EXTERIOR PAINT COLORS" is the exterior paint code. My manual lists 61 paint codes so I won't list them here - I assume that only a small fraction of them were available on the Mustang. Now, looking left-to-right across the line that starts with "BODY" and ends with "TR". BODY Body code. This code will be one of those showed when discussing the VIN body type code. VR Convertible roof type and color identification: Info from 1992 manual --------------------- A Black R Dark Blue W White Info from 1994 manual --------------------- MM Saddle RR Black WW White MLDG Moulding type color codes. There are 12 codes for the LX and 5 for the GT, so I won't list them here. INT Interior Trim: Code Trim Fabric Scheme Seat Type ------ ------------------ --------- B or 1 Vinyl B-Individual C or 2 Leather A-Sport D or 4 Cloth A-Sport F or 6 Cloth B-Individual There are also color codes under here, but there's too many to list. TAPE There's no list of codes given for this field. The field is described as "Tape Stripe" with no other explanation. 1986-87 information had this field labeled as "A/C". R Radio Type Codes (these codes change often - what's listed below are the 1992 options): 5 Radio Premium AM/FM Stereo Disc 6 Radio AM/FM/MPX, Electronic Premium Cassette 7 Radio AM/FM/MPX, Cassette 8 Radio Premium AM/FM Clock Cassette 9 Radio AM/FM, Clock Cassette Electronic Tune F Radio AM/FM Stereo-Electronic H Radio AM/FM Stereo/Cassette, Electronic Y Radio Delete On my car, these codes don't match up. I've got the bargain basement AM/FM digital radio, but my door tag shows "7". S Sun Roof/Moon roof Codes (option not available in 1994) B Sliding C/D Removable I suspect that you won't find code "B" on any '79-'93 Mustangs. AX Axle Code (the most popular code of all!) Conventional Lock Rear Axle Ratio ------------ ---- --------------- G H 2.26 B C 2.47 8 M 2.73 7 - 3.07 Y Z 3.08 4 D 3.42 F R 3.45 5 E 3.27 6 W 3.73 2 K 3.55 A - 3.63 J - 3.85 This is probably a generic rear-ratio chart for Ford's rear-wheel drive cars. Just because a code appears on this chart doesn't mean it was necessarily available in the Mustang. TR Transmission code: 2 5-Speed Manual Overdrive (T5) [1984-97,1989-93] 5 5-Speed Manual Overdrive (T5) [1983,1994] 6 4-Speed Manual Overdrive (SROD) [1979-1983] C 3-Speed Automatic (C5) [1982] L 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive [1993] P 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive [1994] W 3-Speed Automatic (C5) [1979-91] W 5-Speed Manual Overdrive (T5) [1988] Next to the transmission code are four digits that are the suspension spring codes. The code is of the format: XXXX Front ^^ LR ^^ Rear LR The springs are described by part numbers and "Catch-Words". I don't have any way in which to match these up to spring rates, so I won't list the codes. You'll need to cross-reference the part number tagged to the springs themselves. That should cover most of the interesting information. From some of the other fields you can learn things such as: Which district ordered the car and If the car was a special order Buy the manual if you really, really want to know these bits of arcane trivia. Again, remember that this info came out of a 1992 Mustang shop manual. Some of the info given is probably also correct for other years and other models, but you can't count on it. ===================================================================== 2) What effect will a different axle ratio have on my car? ===================================================================== [This information removed at the request of the original contributor.] END OF MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 2
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FAQ Part 3
MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 3, Version 1.1 Last updated 7/9/98 NOTE: The information in this document is correct to the best of the author's knowledge. However, due to a change in employers the author will not be able to update/correct this document in the future. The author accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury, or other "loss" you encounter while working on your car. [The vast majority of the information included in this portion of the FAQ was provided by Chris Behier and Evan Hawrysh. Additional information came from Steve Harrell and Calvin Sanders. The document was assembled by Andre Molyneux.] This portion of the Mustangs FAQ covers stereos. The bulk of this document deals with replacing the factory sound system with aftermarket components, although some information on the stock system is included. Sound system types, components, and locations have changed significantly during the production life of Fox-chassis based Mustangs. The major changes can be broken down into the following three groups: 1979-1986 1987-1993 1994+ The majority of the information with regards to component locations and fitting of aftermarket components applies to the 1987-1993 vehicles only. Little information is (or likely ever will be) included for the earlier cars. Very little info is included for the 1994 cars at this point, but expect more information on these cars to be added as list members gain experience with them. Information is broken down into the following sections: 1) Information on the factory system 1a) Removing the stock head unit 1b) What can I do if my factory head unit is broken? 1c) Is it true the ground wire is RED? 1d) The stock speakers - locations and specs 1e) Noise in a stock system 1f) Connector pin-outs 2) Aftermarket stereo installation concerns 2a) What will fit in the factory head unit location? 2b) What size aftermarket speakers can be fit in the stock locations? 2c) How much power can the stock electrical system handle? 2d) Where is a good place to route wires through the firewall? 2e) What are some sources of noise? 3) Some installation examples 3a) Speaker Installations 3b) My install - Even Hawrysh (ehawrysh@bnr.ca) 3c) Additional information from Chris Behier A lot of good information was lumped into section 3 due to lack of time to break it out and list it separately. Hopefully future editions of this part of the FAQ will break this down better. ======================================================================== 1) Information on the factory system ======================================================================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1a) Removing the stock head unit ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1994+ The Mach 460 system and CD unit have the same holes as the 1987-1993 Mustangs, so pulling the units out should be the same as before. 1987-1993 vehicles The head unit is held in place by four clips, two on each side. If you look at the front of the unit, you will notice a small hole near each corner of the faceplate. The holes provide access for a special tool to release the clips. The Ford tool looks something like this: o------\ \ \ / / o------/ The tool is made of stiff metal wire. You should be able to obtain this tool from Ford or from a car audio dealer. Alternatively, you can make your own tool. Take a dowel long enough to reach between the two holes on one side of the head unit (plus a little extra), plus a couple of nails approximately 3/16" in diameter and at least 2" long. Measure the distance between the holes, and drive the nails through the dowel with the same spacing. Dulling the point and making a little "ball" on the end of each nail (with a dremel tool or file) will help it fit in the clips better. The finished tool should look something like this (obviously not in scale with the drawing above): ------------------------- | | ------------------------- | | | | | | | | | | | | o o Having two tools will make getting the head unit out easier, but in a pinch you can get by with one. Insert the tool(s) into the holes on each side of the faceplate about 1/2" (much further and the clips won't be engaged correctly), at which point you should feel them "catch". Push outward on the "handle" of the tool to release the catch, and pull the head unit forward (with a single tool you'll need to release one side, hold it forward so that it doesn't re-latch, then do the other side). Disconnect the wiring harnesses and antenna-connector, and it's out. The equalizer or plastic bin is attached to the head unit and will come out with it. The amplifier (if so equipped) is located behind the head unit and should be easily visible when the head unit is pulled. Remove two screws and disconnect the wiring harness and it'll come right out. Stephen Foley adds: The factory amp is not always in the dash in the 87 - 93 mustangs. I own a 93 lx with a JBL system and the factory amp is under the front passenger seat. For reference, if the mustang has TWO wiring harnesses, one a long rectangular plug, and the other a shorter, more square like plug, it is a JBL system. That is about the only way to tell the JBL system apart from the standard audio system. Ford really made sure that the system would be hard to identify. GM is at least courteous enough to let the owner know they have a bose system by having delco/bose stamped on the front of the radio. 1979-1986 vehicles The radio/stereo on these earlier vehicles are harder to remove, as they have to come out the back. The radio is held in place by two bolts, one underneath and one behind. You may need to move the center console out of the way (see the shop manual) to get at the bottom bolt. Then disconnect the two wiring harnesses and the antenna connector. The radio is now loose, but there's no room to maneuver it out of the dash. To continue you will need to loosen the lower edge of the dash so that it can be pulled back to give the radio a path out of there. You'll find a metal bar running along the lower edge of the dash on the passenger side, under the glove compartment. You'll find that it's bolted to the chassis in front of the passenger-side door, and to a support over the transmission tunnel. Remove both these bolts and you should be able to pull the lower edge of the passenger-side dash back towards the rear of the car. Now comes the fun part: You need to pull the dash out of the way with one hand, while you rotate and pull the radio to maneuver it out from behind the dash with the other. You may find it easiest to recline the passenger seat as far as possible and lay on it upside-down, with your feet in the back seat and your head in the passenger-side footwell. Pull on the lower edge of the dash with your left hand while you extract the radio with your right. You will find that you need to maneuver the radio carefully in order to extract it. The amplifier (for premium sound systems) is located at the top-center of the dash, where the single-speaker would have been for mono radios. Remove the dash pad (held in place by screws above the instrument panel and glove box area, plus a couple in the defroster vents up top) to gain access. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1b) What can I do if my factory head unit is broken? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ As far as I have seen there is only a couple of options. The Ford Dealership will charge you dearly for a stereo repair and it will take a long time to get fixed as it goes out to Ford Electric Service. The next best thing is to go to a junkyard of Late Model dead Mustangs, or just late model junkyards. They will have your radio/amplifier for you. If you're getting a premium sound system, note that there are a large number of wires connecting the head-unit to the amplifier. If you remove a premium system from a junked vehicle yourself, remove the amp that goes with it and there will be less wires to reconnect. If you don't care to have the same old stock radio, then this is the perfect opportunity to get a new aftermarket stereo unit. Then all kinds of possibilities exist. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1c) Is it true the ground wire is RED? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yes, the RED wire is identified as the "amplifier return wire" and is terminated with a screw to the metal dash frame. It is the system ground. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1d) The stock speakers - locations and specs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1994+ Locations for the Mach 460 are as follows. There are two mid/high speakers up from right where the mirrors are (inside of the car). They are triangular in shape and fit very nicely and discretely. The next two pairs are at the doors, and these are mid/subs just like the rear ones, which are located on the rear deck. Note that the rear speakers are not enclosed but have a port going into the trunk of the car, so replacing those speakers would require the same response of the stock speakers to use the physical configuration of the factory. 1987-1993 The stock speakers vary depending on whether you have the "base" or "premium" level stereo: Base system: Total of 4 speakers Speaker impedance: 3.2 ohms Premium system: Total of 6 speakers Speaker impedance: 6 ohms (8 ohms for coaxes) Speaker locations: Dash: Located on either side of the dashboard. Stock speaker size is 3.5". Doors (premium systems only): Located at the lower forward edge of each door. Stock speaker size is 5.25". Rear: Speaker location varies by the body style of vehicle. For hatchbacks, the speakers are located on either side of the rear seat backs. On convertibles, the speakers are located on either side of the rear seat, but farther forward than on the hatchbacks. Coupes have the rear speakers suspended underneath the shelf behind the rear seatback. Stock speaker size for all locations is 4x6". Stephen Foley adds: The speaker sizes are for the most correct, but the closest possible factory fit in the rear on a 93 hatchback is a 6 x 8 (pioneer makes one) or a 5 x 7. 5 x 7 is the most agreed upon size for replacing the infamous ford 6 x 8 factory speaker. 1979-1986 Go far enough back and you'll still find cars with AM-only radios and a single speaker. I believe that all "stereo" radios came with four speakers, but I could be wrong. Speaker locations: Dash: - AM-only installations will have a single speaker located in the center of the dash. Speaker size looks to be about a 4x6". Impedance - who cares? - Stereo installations have a speaker at either side of the dash. Size is approximately 3", but I've never measured. Impedance unknown. Doors: No 1979-1986 Mustangs came from the factory with speakers in the doors. Rear: Hatchbacks have the rear speakers at the aft end of the cargo area behind the rear seats. The speakers are mounted low against the floor and face *sideways* at each other. Not a particularly good setup. Coupes have the speakers suspended underneath the shelf behind the rear seatback. Stock speaker size for both locations is 4x6". Impedance unknown. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1e) Noise in a stock system ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The stock system should be free of any alternator whine or ignition popping. If these symptoms crop up on a stock system, you should check the following: All power and ground connections to the head unit and amplifier are solid and free of corrosion. Verify that the antenna connector is fully inserted and making good contact. You may also need to check the connection at the antenna itself, which will require getting into the fender. Make sure you have resistor-type spark plugs and that all plugs and wires are in good condition. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1f) Connector pin-outs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ (This information should apply to 1987-1993 cars) From: calvin@jonathan.com (Calvin Sanders) There are 2 plugs (though they may be molded into one piece of plastic on some Fords) one is refered to as the power plug the other is the speaker plug. Each is an 8 pin plug, though on the power plug 3 of the pins are not used and therefore the pins are missing. I also have some wiring colors, these may or may not match the wire colors on your Mustang. The order of the pins can be figured out from the missing pins. POWER PLUG pin# wire color application 1 yellow 12 volt constant - memory, clock, battery 2 not used 3 red 12 volt ignition (switched) 4 orange dash lights (illumination) 5 not used 6 black radio chassis ground 7 blue power antenna 8 not used SPEAKER PLUG 1 white left front positive 2 white/black left front negative 3 green left rear positive 4 green/black left rear negative 5 gray right front positive 6 gray/black right front negative 7 violet right rear positive 8 violet/black right rear negative Again don't count on the colors, but the order is correct ======================================================================== 2) Aftermarket stereo installation concerns ======================================================================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2a) What will fit in the factory head unit location? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1994+ A full-size DIN unit will fit; not sure beyond that. 1987-1993 It is a tight fit, but two full DIN units can be installed in the radio area. The typical scenario is an aftermarket CD player installed below the factory radio/tape player. Mounting h/w plates are widely available that allow a full DIN with a 1/2 DIN location below it. Some ideas for items to mount in the 1/2 DIN are EQs, preamps, electronic xovers, the Sony 1/2 DIN tape player (now discontinued), and with some modifications, the mid-80s Ford clocks (that had date, time, and elapsed time functions in a near 1/2 DIN size - they could be found in some Escorts). With some trimming, the factory plastic pocket will fit in the DIN area, to fill up the opening left by a pull-out head unit. 1979-1986 There's room for one full DIN unit, and that's all. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2b) What size aftermarket speakers can be fit in the stock locations? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ This section covers the stock speaker locations only. For ideas on additional speaker placements, please see section 3. 1987-1993 Dash: The most common replacements are either tweeters or 3.5" coaxial speakers. Tweeter placement can be accomplished by using a metal u-shaped bracket to countersink the tweeter below the dash level. The bracket can be bent or twisted to modify tweeter angle for imaging purposes. Doors: This location is best used for mounting a midrange driver to complement a tweeter. Typical driver size is a 5.25", although some 6.5" drivers will also fit. Beware of mounting depth. The window rail can be pushed back almost an inch without affecting operation. Those with power windows have to be careful - the location of the motor will decrease the available depth. The factory template is 3 holes - most aftermarket drivers will require redrilling for 4. Hatch rear: Most often, replacement of these speakers require a custom mounting board, since the factory ones are screwed onto the back of the plastic grill; this type of mounting is not sufficient to hold heavier speakers comfortably, but is a worthwhile location for rear fill speakers. Common replacements for this speaker are 4x6" plate speakers or a 5.25 or 6.5" midrange/midbass driver, mounted on a custom board. 6x9s will fit, but special attention has to be given to mounting. Coupe rear: These speakers are mounted on the shelf behind the rear seatback. There's room for 6x9" speakers back here, but you may need to remove some sheet metal. Convertible rear: 6x9" Speakers can be fitted with some difficulty. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2c) How much power can the stock electrical system handle? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ from Chris Behier: Well, with underdrive pulleys on the car and a stock alternator, I can barely make 450 watts RMS (900 peak). Fuses are rated for 25Amps and 30Amps for my two Amplifiers. Now if you like loud base, then don't get underdrive pulleys ! and if you to suck up more juice, then a second battery/alternator are possible routes with an Isolator of course. It all depends how big of a system are you willing to live with, I just wanted not to exceed my stock alternator and get great sound quality, with 900 watts max I'm real satisfied. I would not go over 60 Amps peak, this could be too much of a drain on the car. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2d) Where is a good place to route wires through the firewall? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Depending on the gauge and number of wires you are running through the firewall, the wires can be run through the factory wiring harness grommets. There is one on both the driver's and passenger's side of the firewall. There is a metal ring on the driver's side grommet which needs to be loosened prior to running another wire through. Lubing up the wire with dish soap makes it easier to push it through. If you end up having to make an additional hole through the firewall, make sure to clean up any sharp edges and install a grommet. Otherwise you risk having the wire insulation chafe against metal edges, eventually resulting in a short-circuit. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2e) What are some sources of noise? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The Mustang is known for having problematic noise on audio systems, especially alternator whine, but that doesn't mean you have to live with it. There are a few things you can do to minimize the noise in your system before going the route of installing noise filters. Ensure that there is little potential difference between the grounding points of your head unit and other components (amps, xovers, EQs, etc), while at the same time minimizing the ground wire lengths. Also make sure you use a ground wire of equal gauge to the power wires for each component. Also, solder all connections, and seal them with some heat-shrink tubing. ======================================================================== 3) Some installation examples ======================================================================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3a) Speaker installations ------------------------------------------------------------------------ In the rear hatch location >From chrisbe@autodesk.com: Hatchback - I fitted 6x9's in the rear 1/4 panels with difficulty (had to remove some of the sound proofing material). In the doors, 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inch speaker will fit but the depth of the speaker needs to be shallow due to clearance problems. It is a good idea to place mid range woofers there, or something that will not produce a lot of base to minimize the magnet size. I had 5 1/4's mid range speakers in there for both the GT and the GT conv. Up front I had placed 1" supertweeters with a home made bracket I created. but 3 1/2" speakers should fit in there. A subwoofer box can be made for the trunk area. I had an enclosed, 2 12" subs in a box that was geometrically jammed in the trunk area. This way I would not need to drill any holes in the interior and was easely removable. It also fitted under the pull down vinyl cover that is in the trunk for a stealthier look. The subs were mounted vertically behind the rear seats, and enclosed the recommended volume from the Sub manufacturer. From: ehawrysh@bnr.ca (speaker: Legacy LS6920 3-way 6x9): The requirement is a speaker that can have a deep magnet/piston, or basket, but not a wide one. There is also tailight wiring that is collected and fastened to the fender well behind the insulation with a big plastic clip which might cut down on your depth. It can be moved out of the way to provide more depth. There wasn't one on the passenger's side of my vehicle. If you're not using a speaker or adapter that mates with the face of the stock grill, be sure to seal off the any potential openings that may cause cancellation of sound waves from the front and back of the speaker i.e. seal off the area between the speaker face and the grill. If this isn't done correctly, you will get little bass from your drivers. Anyways, here's what I did to make them fit. I placed the speaker into the opening behind the grill, so that it rested on top of the insulation. Next, I removed the metal grill from the plastic frame that came with the speakers, and placed the frame on the speaker (ie both frame and speaker fit into the opening. The plastic extensions on the factory grill (where the screws go into) would come into contact with the frame, though. I needed a way to anchor the speaker as well. So I drilled holes into the frame (one was already there; for securing the frame to a deck in a normal application) into which the plastic extensions fit snugly, and allowed the factory grill to fit into place. This also served to secure the speaker. I also used the frame to mount some weatherstripping between the frame and the factory grill to isolate front from back. Magnet size and diameter is a big thing here. There is room for a big magnet, but the diameter cannot be too large (ie large in depth, but not dia). The magnet rests against the insulated inner fender well. There is also tailight wiring that is collected and fastened to the fender well behind the insulation with a big plastic clip which might cut down on your depth. I just removed the clip, and this was no longer a factor. This is a very tight fit, and the holes have to be drilled precisely, but it can be done. And I think it's easier fitting a 6x9 than say a 6.5 round (at least it probably looks better through the grill. Oh, the sound is great. Decent bass too. But when I get my sub in, it'll start up from where these left off! Hope this helps. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3b) My install - ehawrysh@bnr.ca ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Appendix B: My install - ehawrysh@bnr.ca Here's the setup: head unit: Alpine 7903s CD tuner 4ch preamp pull-out active xover: Coustic XM-3 input: 4ch from tuner output: 2ch to Cupid 22wpc 2ch amp (xover 120Hz) 2ch to 2ch of Sony amp 33wpc (xover 100Hz) 1ch mono sub output to bridged ch of Sony (xover 100Hz) mounted underneath front passenger seat Cupid amp: to JBL TN05 passive xovers, 12db/oct mounted underneath front passenger seat passive xovers: highpass to JBL T05 tweeters in dash (xover 3kHz) full range to 6 db/oct lowpass (coil) to JBL T51 mids (xover 3kHz) in doors coils mounted in door JBL xovers mounted behind head unit Sony amp: 2ch to Legacy LS6920 6x9s in stock rear locations mono bridged channel to homemade isobaric tube sub mounted under driver's seat Sub: 2 - Rockford Fosgate SP-88 drivers mounted face-face, wired in parallel isobaric design, sealed enclosure held in with strap for easy removal and access to spare Totally stealth design (except sub, but I covered it in the same carpeting as the interior, so it blends in. It's also at the very back of the car, so the hatch partially covers it. If the hatch cover is over it, it's covered completely. The 7903s is a pullout. When it's out, I put the factory plastic pocket into the sleeve. I have a mounting kit which consists of an opening for a din and a 1/2 din. The 1/2 din opening holds a green LED clock from a mid -80's Ford Escort and includes date,time, and elapsed time. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3b) Additional information from Chris Behier ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hatchback - I fitted 6x9's in the rear 1/4 panels with difficulty (had to remove some of the sound proofing material). In the doors, 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 inch speaker will fit but the depth of the speaker needs to be shallow due to clearance problems. It is a good Idea to place Mid range woofers there, or something that will not produce a lot of base to minimize the magnet size. I had 5 1/4's mid range speakers in there for both the GT and the GT conv. Up front I had placed 1" supertweeters with a home made bracket I created. but 3 1/2" speakers should fit in there. A subwoofer box can be made for the trunk area. I had an enclosed, 2 12" subs in a box that was geometrically jammed in the trunk area. This way I would not need to drill any holes in the interior and was easely removable. It also fitted under the pull down vinyl cover that is in the trunk for a stealthier look. The subs were mounted vertically behind the rear seats, and enclosed the recommended volume from the Sub manufacturer. Convertible - The only changes from the above are the rear speakers and the Subwoofer setup. I designed an Isobaric system with the wheelwell as the enclosure, bridged my amp and it worked wonders. The only thing about 12" in a convertible is that you need volume for the subs - which you ain't got much. The trunk space acts as the open air side of the speaker, but the trunk needs porting for even better results as it is still a little suffocating for the system to work at its best. Smaller Subs can be placed back there, four 8" subs on a board, maybe a tube would work too, but then you are assured to lose your precious trunk space. I currently have 2 amps, 1 EQ, 2 12" subs, and a CD changer in there. I can still fit 4 grocery bags back there - which is not bad considering the space we are provided with. For the rear 1/4 panels, 6x9's will work with a little of pushing and shoving. I got 6x9 4 way speakers right now which are great. For the sub design I can be contacted, and I could fax the dimentioned drawing of it. What is an Isobaric System ? Isobaric means constant pressure in thermodynamic terms. The setup is like this: ------- | | <--Sub 1 ------- / \ _________/ \__________ \ / \ / Enclosed side. ------- | | <--Sub 2 ------- The Speakers work in MONO where one of the poles of the speakers is reversed to achieve the following. As one speaker pushes (say sub 2) upward, the top speaker will pull upward, conserving the pressure between the speakers constant. By having the MONO setup, you can bridge your amp and have two speaker wires hooked up to the single output of the amp. Subwoofer frequencies are so low that a stereo effect is pretty useless and is pretty much unidirectional, so the orientation of the speakers don't matter much (they don't need to point in any particular direction). Also the beauty of the system is that only one volume for the subs is required. Enclosing the bottom speaker to the correct volume of one speaker will do the job and you save yourself 1 volume of a 12" for example. Where to put the CD changer ? Not too close to the subs ! the vibration will make the CD player skip at louder volumes which happened to me. Place it firmly onto the chassis either in your trunk or some other hidden place, but easely accessible. Wiring of the CD Changer ? There are two way you can go, Analog or Digital. Analog requires that big thick chord provided with the CD changer to be fed through the center console, under the carped at the rear hump, under the rear seat, and into the trunk. Digitally, an optical cable needs to be added. As this cable cannot take a bend more than a few inches in diameter, I routed it along the bottom or the doorway, where it not get pinched and take sharp turns. Wiring to the amps - RCA's ? Get *good* RCA cables the first time ! Yep, you might have to shell out some buck for this but its worth it. I initially put some cheap wires but the static drives you up the wall if your amps are far from the head unit. Get double shielded RCA cables. I got Phoenix Gold wires after I had enough of hissing and in conjunction with the optical cable it was an unbelievable experience of pure silence. This way, you get to hear true CD quality :) 1) How to safely mount your stereo Equipment into the car to avoid damaging your precious equipment ? A CD changer should be mounted if possible onto the center line of the car, this is where the CD player will get the least amounts of bumps, and less skipping too. The head unit should use the rail clip from the stock stereo. This of course requires you to take out the center console to unbolt the little nut behind the unit. It also helps to prevent a thief from taking your stereo unit. In my case the radio portion of my unit had to be placed under the passenger seat, this piece does not heat up a whole bunch, so it safe for the component to be placed there, using one of the seat bolts as the grounding point. This brings me to the amplifiers, one MUST place them in a well ventilated place. If they are high output amps, you might even be required to add small fans to keep the amps cool. Another note, is that replacing the amp's metallic shell to show the interior might look great, but the shell acts like a heat sink, and a plexiglass replacement might heat up your amps even more. Good locations are behind the rear seats (mounted onto the rear seat fold down flaps), or onto the trunk floor. Depending on how much space you are willing to sacrifice, you can always mount them any which way, in an airy, no visible location. 1) How does humidity affect my equipment? Then there is humidity that you need to worry about. If your connections are gold plated, then you must not worry too much but if they are not, you will need to check your connections for oxidation every once in a while (every 6 months maybe). If you car happens to leak (convertible especially), try to do your best to stop the leak. On my convertible I had to remove all the windshield panels off, silicone all of them shut to avoid any moisture in the vehicle. Also on rainy cold days, using the the AC and the heater together brings in dry hot air, and helps to have your windows defogged. 2) How does dust affect my equipment ? Well, dust as many people know, is one of the biggest enemies of electronics. Keeping you car clean and not smoking in you vehicle will help to minimize the amount of dust. Also having the windows closed most of the time will help too, but for the fresh air lovers and convertibles, it becomes a more acute problem and cleaning regularly the vehicle is needed. 3) Cleaning your equipment and removing some scratches. Well, a soft toothbrush will get into most little corners and remove dirts without scratching anything if done gently. If your glass display is a little scratched, the use a fine rubbing compound and a cloth to polish it out. A rougher but smooth enough compound like toothpaste can work, otherwise machinist compound or even turtle wax can do it too. (Turtle wax is extremely fine though). I use Son of a Gun on my convertible. I found that Armor All is way to greasy for my vinyl top of the convertible and for the interior of the car. It makes my unit look like new when I clean it with a little toothbrush and Son of a Gun. Also using Son of a Gun will repel dust after the application onto your components. If you have a tape deck in the car, make sure you clean the tape head regularly. This is one area of heavy neglect and is a must to keep your sound, equipment, and tapes from deterioration. One must note that if you want to remove some scratches off your equipment, make sure you do not apply any polishing compound on lettering that has been painted or embossed as it is will rub it off too, do this with extreme caution. END OF MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 3
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FAQ Part 4
"Late Model" MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 4A, Version 1.0 Last updated 4/13/95. NOTE: The information in this document is correct to the best of the author's knowledge. However, due to a change in employers the author will not be able to update/correct this document in the future. The author accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury, or other "loss" you encounter while working on your car. This portion of the FAQ was written by Andre Molyneux. It's labeled as Part 4A, as my intention was to make part 4 of the FAQ contain common failures and fixes. This obviously would get too long to handle in a single section, so I planned to do Part 4A, 4B, 4C, etc. Anyone adding on to the FAQ in the future may want to keep the same naming convention. Part 4 - Common failures/fixes Section A - Engine cooling system/heater core ===================================================================== 1) Failures/diagnoses ===================================================================== The cooling system is a known trouble spot on Mustangs. Water pumps and heater cores go out with distressing regularity. Some of the more common problem symptoms/causes are: - Coolant dripping/spraying from underneath the water pump. Most likely a water pump/gasket failure. See section 2. - Coolant overflows into catch tank even though car hasn't over- heated, and the radiator is low when checked. - Radiator cap is bad. Have it pressure tested. Stock caps are set for 16 psi. - Bad head gasket. Exhaust gasses are getting into the cooling system and forcing the coolant out. Replace head gasket. - Antifreeze smell in passenger compartment. - Bad heater core. See section 3. - Defroster fogs up the inside of the window instead of clearing it. - Bad heater core. See section 3. - Carpet under passenger-side dash is wet - Bad heater core. See section 3. - Windshield gasket seal is bad. ===================================================================== 2) Water pump ===================================================================== The water pump write up only covers 5.0L cars at this time. The water pump is a consumable on 5.0L Mustangs. Expect it to go out around every 50k miles or so, although some certainly go sooner and others last much longer. Fortunately the water pump isn't too difficult to replace. The replacement procedure in the factory manual is pretty decent, so only a few additional hints will be added here. How it fails: There are two main failure modes for the water pump, which can be diagnosed by where the coolant is leaking from. They are: - Input shaft seal failure The seal around the input shaft between the pulley/fan and the impeller (inside the pump body) starts to leak. This failure mode results in coolant leaking out of a "weep hole" on the underside of the pump housing. - Gasket failure. The gasket between the pump housing and the thin plate on the backside of the pump fails. This plate is sandwiched between the pump housing and a raised ridge on the block, except at the bottom where there's a gap in the ridge. The failure almost always occurs at this point at the bottom of the pump. Both failures will result in coolant leaking from the underside of the pump. If the gasket has failed, you'll see coolant spraying out from the pump/engine block junction. Input shaft seal failures typically don't spray as high a volume of coolant out, and it will be coming from further forward on the pump body, where it tapers down around the shaft. Input shaft failure requires replacement of the pump. For gasket failures you can just replace the gasket, but based on the age of the pump you may want to go ahead and replace the whole thing anyway. If the pump's already got 50k miles or more on it, it doesn't make much sense to replace just the gasket when an input shaft seal failure probably isn't too much further down the road. Getting a replacement: Unfortunately, getting the correct pump isn't always easy. Since the 5.0/302 has been around for a long time, there have been a variety of sublty different pump designs used over the years. This is complicated by the fact that later cars with a single serpentine-belt spin the pump in the opposite direction compared to earlier cars. It's not at all unusual for a store to give you the wrong pump for your application. Although it's a pain, you should pull the old pump off the car before heading for the auto parts store. Things to check when comparing the old pump and the new pump: - Verify that the spacing of the holes for attaching the fan line up correctly (otherwise you'll get the whole thing put back together and discover you can't bolt the fan back on). - Make sure that backing plate of the new pump doesn't have any protrusions that extend further back than the old pump (or else it won't seat on the block). - Verify that the impeller blades are oriented the same direction on the new pump (otherwise the pump will be trying to move coolant in the wrong direction - it'll bolt up, but you'll encounter major overheating problems in short order). Several people have commented about problems with rebuilt pumps. Brand new pumps aren't overly expensive, and are probably worth the money. Special tools: Replacing the pump doesn't take anything special (aside from a 5/8" deep socket, which is an absolute necessity). A well-stocked socket set, a tube of sealant, and a scraper are about all that's required. Hints: Since you're draining most of the coolant and disconnecting one of the hoses anyway, you might want to go ahead and pull the radiator when doing this job. It's very easy to do, and getting it and the fan shroud out of the way gives you a lot more elbow room. The pump-to-thermostat hose is a pain to get on and off. Remove all of the other necessary hoses before unbolting the pump, but leave this hose until you actually have the pump unbolted from the block. The hose comes off easily when you can move the pump around. Likewise, install this hose onto the new pump before bolting it up. ===================================================================== 3) Heater core ===================================================================== The heater core is a well known weak-spot on Fox Mustangs. In fact, a local radiator shop claims that replacing the heater cores in Mustangs (as well as Taurus's and T-birds) is what keeps them in business. The information in this section applies to '79 to '93 Mustangs - I don't know if Ford changed the design of the heater core and/or evap case for the '94 and later cars. Failures are typically pinhole leaks along the seams where the core was soldered. However, some people have damaged their cores by flexing the input and output tubes while replacing the heater hoses. Take your time and be careful when replacing these hoses - creating a stress-fracture on the core is a very expensive mistake. The core itself is relatively inexpensive, but replacing it can be quite difficult. In most cases, the dash has to be pulled back, and if you have A/C the manual says you have to discharge it before pulling the core. However, a number of people have managed to replace the core in cars with A/C without discharging - it can be done, but it's not easy. On earlier cars without A/C, heater core replacement can be very easy. Simply remove the glove-box door, and look for a removable panel on the heater case. If you've got one of these, all you have to do is remove the panel and you've got access to the core. Unfortunately, this only applies to cars without A/C, and only up to maybe the mid-eighties. Later non A/C equipped cars (and apparently all A/C equipped cars) require that the dashboard be pulled back, and that the heater/evap case be pulled back as well, to get at the core. You really need the factory manual for this job, as it clearly calls out the location of all the fasteners that must be removed in order to pull the dash back. Once you've managed to get the dash pulled back about 8 inches or so, you'll have a good look at the evaporator case. The problem with accessing the core is that the access panel has to be pulled off from the top, but the evap case is tucked under structural metal. Doing the job "right" would involve pulling the evap case back about 6 inches, but the A/C lines prevent this - thus the instructions tell you to discharge the A/C system and disconnect the lines. The case can be pulled back a little bit before the A/C blocks further progress. This is just enough that with some prying (and perhaps a little bit of judicious cutting of the plastic case) that you can pull the old core out of the case. You need to be very careful when inserting the new core - you don't want to rub it hard against the case, or get it jammed and have to force it in, as you could damage it and end up with a brand new leaking core. Cutting the case (and using some sealant to patch it up afterwards) is much preferable to risking any damage to the core. When you install a new core, make sure that is has a plastic restrictor on the inlet (the core may come with this, or your old core may have one that you can re-use). If you don't have one, get one from a radiator shop or other source. You need one because the Mustang's heater core's inlet is larger than its outlet. This means that a pressure drop is created across the core, and this is probably one of the reasons why they fail so often. Adding an inlect restrictor causes the pressure drop to occur before the core, and will hopefully lead to a longer life. Ford started putting the inlet restrictors on sometime in the mid-late eighties, but it's a good idea for any year of car. END OF MUSTANGS MAILING LIST FAQ - PART 4Copyright and Attribution
These files are intended for the private use of late model Mustang enthusiasts. Much of their content was contributed by subscribers to the Mustangs mailing list, and such material is attributed to the original source wherever possible. However, as the maintainer of this directory, I bear sole responsibility for its content. I welcome corrections and additions. If you've come here to locate a repair procedure that's covered in the Ford shop manual, you won't find it. This is because I don't have room for an online repair manual, nor do I have the time to type it in, nor could I hope to do as good a job as the authors of the existing manuals. The intent of this directory is to provide pointers to existing resources, and folklore and tips that you won't find in the literature. CONTENTS: Are currently limited to fog light repairs and part 1 of the FAQ proper. More parts of the FAQ are under development, and will be added in the near future. COMMENTS, CORRECTIONS, ETC.: Should be sent to chucko@chucko.com. Corrections and additions will be incorporated at my earliest convenience. CREDITS: I wish I could remember everyone who's helped put this together! If you've contributed something, I apologize in advance if your name is not mentioned here. Two names that stand out are Andre Molyneux for actually editing the initial version of the FAQ, and Gary Gitzen for establishing and maintaining the Mustangs mailing list. COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Entire contents of this directory compilation copyright (c) 1994, Chuck Fry, et al. Other individual copyrights apply as indicated. Reproduction for profit without prior permission is prohibited. Distribution for private use in any form is expressly permitted, provided proper attribution is given. This notice will be replaced by the real copyright notice when it exists. DISCLAIMERS: While the information presented here is correct to the best of my knowledge, I disclaim all responsibility and liability for its use. I will gladly correct any information found to be erroneous at my earliest opportunity. Be aware that some of the modifications, procedures, and driving techniques described here may be dangerous, and take appropriate safety precautions. Save the high-speed antics for the race track, where you have a chance of surviving a mistake. The opinions expressed here are the personal opinions of the individual contributors, and do not represent the official opinion or policies of any organization, least of all Best Internet Communications or Ford Motor Company. -- Chuck Fry chucko@chucko.com
~ Mustangs List FAQ ~
Published 2010-11-01
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